The 10 Outstanding Watches of SIHH 2016
The horological wonders unveiled at the 26th edition of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, known as SIHH, extended the limits of fine watchmaking, writes Hiren Kumar Bose choosing the best 10 of the many
GREUBEL FORSEY Double Balancier 35°
How about watching two balances in moving on the dial? This watch offers you that. The two inclined balances in the watch are placed between the time digits of four and six o’clock and eight and ten o’clock respectively. Both can be observed in action through two openings in the lower part of the dial. It was around 1999 that watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey began working on the development of inclined oscillators. The first were rotating oscillators mounted in a cage. They quickly examined the possibility of creating fixed and inclined regulating organs. This type of construction allowed them to considerably reduce the harmful effects of gravity on the escapement. Available in white gold, the watch has an Anthracite gold dial and is limited to six pieces.
A. LANGE & SOHNE Saxonia Moon Phase
The latest model of the Saxonia family stands out with its lucid design and the compelling combination of two popular complications: a precise moon-phase display and the characteristic Lange outsize date. These two elements dominate the face of a timepiece focused on optimised technology and aesthetic perfection. The famous outsize date is a style-defining facet of A 가을타나봐 다운로드. Lange & Söhne watches. The gold-framed split double aperture, as well as the space-saving configuration with two separate display segments for the units and tens has evolved to become an iconic brand hallmark. The self-winding calibre L086.5 inside the watch is already the eminent Saxon manufactory’s 16th movement with this popular astronomical complication. The display is connected to the hour-wheel continuum so, just like the moon itself, it is always in motion. It reproduces the period from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.998 per cent, thanks to a precisely calculated seven-stage transmission. Once set, and assuming that the watch runs continuously, the display only has to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years. The intense blue tone of the solid-gold lunar disc is created by a special patented coating process. Then, a laser is used to cut out no fewer than 852 stars.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Midnight Nuit Lumineuse
The Maison enriches its Poetic Astronomy™ theme with a watchmaking innovation, eliciting new emotions–illuminating the 42mm watch’s dial in a mechanical way. Made real, the scene unfolds against a background of aventurine glass, where diamond stars shine. It houses an automatic mechanical movement with a retrograde hour and light on demand module, developed exclusively in-house OneFun Man Opening Download. Among the various constellations traced out in white miniature painting, that of the Unicorn – or Monoceros – can be seen, in an allusion to the enchanted world of Van Cleef & Arpels. Here, as if by magic, it lights up in a remarkable way thanks to the six diamonds that punctuate its outline.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon
A stellar creation, its elegant and sophisticated case houses a movement equipped with an unusual Gyrotourbillon®. Vividly embodying the signature horological sophistication of Jaeger-LeCoultre on both faces, it springs a number of surprises including an entirely open-worked back dial. This platinum model issued in a 75-piece limited series is 30% trimmer in terms of both width and thickness. For a Grande Complication movement, this accomplishment testifies to remarkable virtuosity. Equipped with the Calibre 179, now performing its rotation by means of an external driving mechanism, it appears to be floating in mid-air. This enables a spectacular plunging view of the light, airy architecture. Pared down to their slimmest possible form, the two carriages of this bi-axial flying tourbillion perform an external rotation in one minute and an internal rotation in 12.6 seconds 파이브 스타 스토리즈 다운로드. The gaze can thus linger on the balance-spring hand-crafted in the workshops of the Manufacture. This delicate and exclusive balance-spring is a token of expert technical mastery that is also exercised on the Gyrolab® balance-wheel, distinguished by a non-circular configuration that considerably reduces air friction. Shaped like the Jaeger-LeCoultre anchor symbol, this component represents a decisive breakthrough in terms of the watch’s precision. The front of the watch features a finely grained white round dial swept over by blued steel Dauphine-type hands and evoking the noblest traditions of horological sophistication. An elegant day/night indicator appears at 11 o’clock, while the seconds are displayed in an unusual manner by means of a graduated disc rotating at the cadence of the Gyrotourbillon®, with a small blue arrow placed on its left serving to read off this indication. There is something uniquely exciting about swivelling the case to savour a second face that both stimulates curiosity and heightens desire. The entirely open-worked movement with its bridges hand-decorated by these skilled artisans creates a remarkable effect on this back dial. The dual-time display and the Gyrotourbillon® stand out against the intricate downstrokes and upstrokes of the open-worked movement. This side also carries a day/night indicator in 24-hour mode at 2 o’clock as well as a small seconds hand driven by the tourbillon. Swivelling the case also reveals a cradle that is gently curved to follow the shape of the wrist. This area adorned with a sunburst guilloché motif leaves a small round, smoothly polished surface just below the position of the Gyortourbillon®, thus enabling a full view of the show performed by this major complication when the case is fitted inside its cradle Download the car racing game.
MONTBLANC TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
For the very first time, Montblanc equips its urban modern TimeWalker collection with the Maison’s exclusive in-house patented ExoTourbillon. The combination of this high performance regulating organ with a monopusher chronograph, daring and imposing aesthetics and mix of light-weight yet highly resistant materials reinforces the spirit of performance of the TimeWalker, from case to movement. With large openings, minimalised bezels, distinctive contoured typography, lancet-shaped hands and skeletonized horns, the signature TimeWalker aesthetics celebrate horology in a highly contemporary way. The design and the functionality of the model is further highlighted by the use of high-tech materials such as titanium, carbon fibre and diamond-like carbon (DLC), which make the timepieces extremely lightweight and robust. Performance and design are also continued through to the calibres with a selection of automatic movements and useful. The innovative Tourbillon construction is integrated in Montblanc’s in-house developed chronograph calibre that combines all the elements of a traditional chronograph with a contemporary highly performant construction: monopusher with column wheel, efficient and precise vertical coupling, automatic winding and two barrels. The 45 mm watch model is limited to 100 pieces.
LAURENT FERRIER Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue
In 2013, the independent brand presented its maiden Galet Traveller and with its latest a new three-dimensional model reveals the full measure of its expertise and mastery of visual aesthetics with an interpretation of the Earth seen by night 타인은 지옥이다 5회 다운로드. A contemporary timepiece intended for globetrotters, it offers a new version of the dual-time display. Thanks to keen attention devoted to details and to balance, as well as to achieving the pleasing proportions and refined curves, the model combines perfect legibility with the traditional principles of haute horlogerie. The centre of this dial is adorned with a convex planisphere depicting the five continents in 18-ct white gold, surrounded by a blue enamel sea. Crafted using the age-old champlevé technique, the area destined to host the seas and oceans is hollowed out from the material before the enamel is applied. The difficulty of this exercise lies in performing this enamelling on a domed surface serving to reproduce the rotundity of the Earth and in highlighting the central five-continent motif. The edge of the continents slopes gently towards the coastlines, displaying various shades of blue. The three-dimensional effect is reinforced by several aesthetic details. The emerged territories are painted and the world’s cities seen by night are depicted by gold leaf-adorned dots further enhancing the contrast with the oceans. Hand-finished with a circular satin-brushed decoration, the outer gold ring dips towards the central sphere, thereby accentuating the illusion of a raised globe literally balanced on top of the dial ps3 games. The unique aesthetic of this 41 mm model is heightened by the drop-shaped hour-markers whose tips extend beyond the ring, giving the impression that they are literally suspended in the void.
VOUTILAINEN GMT-6
The 39mm wristwatch embodies the perfection enshrined in Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen’s philosophy. The elegant and robust mechanism is housed in a sturdy and stylish case. The proprietary movement of the GMT-6 was entirely conceived, designed, produced, finished and assembled in Voutilainen workshops. The movement contains free sprung-balance system that ensures perfect timing of the watch according to strict tolerance criteria. The balance has four gold inertia-blocks to adjust the daily rate. To equip this exceptional timepiece, a unique and very rare balance-spring system has been used. The outside is a Philips overcoil, while the inner terminal follows the less common Grossmann principle. The watch’s outstanding feature is its escapement; it is the first watch to present two escape-wheels in such a configuration. The escape-wheels provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel 카티아 학생용 다운로드. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering gains in terms of longevity and stability in everyday use. The sublimely elegant balance-cock offers an unobstructed view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronised movements of the escape-wheels. A GMT mechanism is integrated in the movement. Its indicator takes the form of a disc at 6 o’clock. The disc shows 24 hours and includes a day/night indicator. The triangle transferred to the subsidiary seconds dial represents the index by which the indication can be read. The disc is advanced by pressing the crown, each press moving the disc forward one hour at a time. The disks are engine-turned by hand and they have transparent grand feu enamel in blue and orange on it.
DE BETHUNE DB25 World Traveller
An intelligent watch, it features a second time zone and world time expressed with a mysterious display. Visually, the refinement of the 45 mm DB25 World Traveller lies in the concentric arrangement of the functions. World times appear on a disc in the centre of the dial, encircled by a graduated channel in which a moving microsphere indicates the reference time – also known as the home time 온도계 무료 다운로드. This microsphere, a technical signature of De Bethune since their invention of the three-dimensional moon-phase, has two halves that allow it to also indicate day and night. One-half is blue, the other pink, and they reverse positions when they pass 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Local time is displayed on the hour circle, and the day on the last exterior circle. The DB25 World Traveller is equipped with the mechanical calibre DB2547 with manual winding, the latest manufactured. For the first time, the central delta bridge is embellished with a “Côtes De Bethune” decoration in the centre, produced using the Microlight micrometric engraving technique developed by De Bethune. The polished plate is hollowed out to become concave and thus intensifies the reflections of light as a result. The regulator is equipped with a new evolution, a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, developed particularly for optimal management of temperature variations.
PARMIGIANI Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
To mark its 20th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier is unveiling the 42 mm Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, its new integrated chronograph movement. An integrated chronograph is the Holy Grail for a watch manufacture, as it is one of the complications requiring the most skill to create on an industrial scale 아이피타임 다운로드. The chronograph relies on kinematics with a chain of actions, each one determining and triggering the next, and each sequence precisely synchronised and adjusted. The higher the oscillation frequency, the more accurate the chronograph. A frequency of 5 Hertz, very rare for such a calibre, means that the chronograph’s seconds hand makes ten jumps or steps per second, thus enabling a precision to the 10th of a second. Besides it has column wheels instead of a cam, a vertical clutch instead of a horizontal clutch, A balance secured by a cross-through bridge instead of a single attachment point, known as the “cock.” Perfectly integrated into the Tonda ChronorAnniversaire’s PF361 movement, this complication enhances the chronograph with its potential to measure split times. Its principle rests on an additional hand known as the “split second hand” which sits on top of the central chronograph seconds hand, or “trotteuse”, and is permanently linked to it.
MOSER & CIE. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue
In a brilliant demonstration of the minimalist credo “less is more”, the brand is bringing together a now-iconic model and dial which return to the essential, in a model featuring a magnificent sky-blue fumé dial. Stripped of all indices, logo and branding, this dial of 34mm watch really comes into its own, completely free and uncluttered. The beauty of the subtle shades of the sunburst design is enhanced by the sfumato effect, like a Renaissance painter’s canvas 틱택토 다운로드. By giving the timepiece back its primary function, H. Moser & Cie. is refocusing the debate on the issue of true luxury, in answer to a discernible demand: the desire to return to basics, a desire for authenticity, for purity. The Endeavour case is available in rose or white gold, paired with the sky-blue fumé dial. The straps which accompany this exceptional model have been chosen with the utmost care, to ensure this pared-down creation is as refined as possible, lending it a power rarely achieved.
