The Desirable Ones
The 27th edition of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), organised by Fondation de la Gaute Horlogerie, begins in Geneva in a month from now. Joining the now thirty exhibitors are Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin; besides the five newcomers to the Carré des Horlogers. Hiren Kumar Bose provides a sneak preview of the five watches to be displayed during the five-day long event
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual
The LM Perpetual is now being issued in white gold: a limited edition with a purple face, and a non-limited edition with grey face. The watch features a fully integrated 581-component calibre ? no module, no base movement ? with a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance. With Legacy Machine Perpetual no more skipping dates or jamming gears, as the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so no problems there either! The 44 mm x 17.5 mm cased watch turns the traditional perpetual calendar system on its head by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year. With its open dial revealing the full complication and suspended balance, it’s the harmonious mechanical beauty of LM Perpetual that really steals the show. And in an interesting technical twist, that eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely to be the world’s longest balance staff.
ULYSSE NARDIN Classico Rooster
Ulysse Nardin introduces the “Year of the Rooster” with the 40mm Classico Rooster, a limited edition of 88 pieces in 18-ct rose gold, powered by the self-winding UN-815 movement with its COSC certification. Combining characteristic engineering excellence with the artistic mastery of enamelling, the Classico Rooster is a reliable timepiece of elegant beauty. In this classical depiction, the artist has perfectly captured the rooster’s natural energy. It is the centuries-old champlevé method of enamelling that brings the artist’s sketch to life. A rare art form and one mastered by very few, the champlevé technique involves the carving of cells with a chisel directly on the dial, which are then filled with enamel. Its colours come from the careful blending of different metallic oxides. The piece is then fired until the enamel melts. It is mastered in-house at Donzé Cadrans, a member of the Ulysse Nardin group of companies.
BAUME & MERCIER Promesse Moon Phase
An addition to the collection launched in 2014, this 34mm watch gives a glimpse into the mystery behind the four phases of the moon, unveiling each chapter right on the dial. With a modern twist, the moon phase drawing perfectly suits the blue lacquered dial. The 30 diamonds, set like two crescent moons, brighten up this starry night and highlight the oval shaped bezel, perfectly fitting into the round polished steel case. This interplay of shapes has been the trademark of Promesse since its creation. A final touch—the glossy midnight blue alligator strap, completes the chic masterpiece.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Lange 1 Moon Phase
It tracks the lunar cycle – with an average duration of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds – so accurately that it takes 122.6 years for the display to deviate from the true synodic period by just one day. The arrangement of the display is based on a new, particularly realistic concept. A separate solid-gold moon pursues its orbit in the foreground. Behind it, a celestial disc – also made of solid gold – performs exactly one revolution every 24 hours. On the disc, the different times of day are represented by varying blue hues caused by interference effects. During the day, it shows a bright sky without stars, while at night it depicts a dark sky with prominently contrasting laser-cut stars. Thus, the moon always orbits against a realistic background that doubles as a day/night indicator when setting the watch. The now 20th Lange calibre with a moon-phase display is based on the Lange 1 movement introduced two years ago, and it has the same performance attributes. This includes the characteristic twin mainspring barrel with a maximum power reserve of 72 hours and the precisely jumping outsize date display. The watch also features an escapement with a cam-poised balance and a free-sprung Lange hairspring. Suspended beneath the hand-engraved balance cock, it beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.
BAUME & MERCIER Clifton GMT Power Reserve
Baume & Mercier expands its Clifton collection with a complication as useful as it is cosmopolitan: dual time indicator. The deep blue dial features the classic elegance of a creation fashioned out of 187 years of watchmaking and stylistic expertise. The Clifton GMT Power Reserve catches the eye with its distinguished look, a signature of uncompromising quality and modern design. Housed in a 43mm steel case with polished & satin finishes, highlighting the collection’s hallmark double bevel, its well-balanced dimensions make it easy to wear on all occasions. The deep blue dial with sun-satin finishes clearly displays the day’s requisite information: the date, the power reserve, and the GMT. Envisioned for frequent travellers, this last complication makes it possible to display two different time zones. This sophisticated timepiece is offered on a black alligator strap with square scales, with tone-on-tone stitching and a triple folding buckle with security push-pieces. Curved lugs ensure a perfect integration of the strap, making the watch extremely comfortable to wear.
