Global Watches: Worldtimers of 2017

Watchmaker Louis Cottier (1894-1996) developed a number of patents but today, he’s best remembered for the invention of the world-time complication, that allows having all 24 main time-zones around the world displayed at once on a dial. Every year Cottier’s invention has several iterations, Hiren Kumar Bose on the new Worldtimers launched in 2017

ULYSSE NARDIN Executive Moonstruck Worldtimer

This 46mm watch depicts the movements of the moon and sun in relation to the Earth, as well as a map of the tides. It recreates the moon’s orbit and the apparent movement of the sun around the globe. Its celestial ballet, just as it is seen from the Earth, is unlike any other astronomical watch. This intuitive display hides a sophisticated mechanism that provides an unusually accurate indication of the phases of the moon. In the centre of the dial, the Northern Hemisphere is depicted as seen from above the North Pole. Six o’clock in London represents the Greenwich meridian, marking GMT. Three concentric discs turn around this fixed map of the world. The outermost circle features a symbol representing the sun. This solar disc, which completes one revolution in 24 hours, also sweeps over a display of 24 time zones and is equipped with a day/night indicator. These markings control the Worldtimer function, allowing the wearer to simultaneously display the time in the 24 cities inscribed on the internal flange. As for the moon, this appears on a lower orbit. Two discs work together here: on top, the first functions as a circular window showing the position of the Earth’s satellite; below, the second disc, in gold, shows the changing phases of the moon. By separating this unique display into two rotating parts, it accomplishes a high level of precision that the time lag for each lunar month is just 5.7 seconds per day or one day in 40 years. Like the earlier Moonstruck Worldtimer, it remains the only astronomical wristwatch with the bright part of the moon always facing the sun, as happens in real life. The dial also displays a particularly easy-to-read map of the tides, which is the result of the gravitational forces of these two celestial bodies, as well as of the centrifugal force exerted by the rotation of the Earth. This sometimes exaggerates or cancels out the influence of the oceans. Equipped with silicium technology, and entirely designed and produced in-house, the self-winding calibre UN-106 housed in the Moonstruck Worldtimer once again offers a date function, on a track encircling the world map. Push buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock enable the wearer to quickly move the time forward or backward by one hour – a very handy feature while travelling or when switching to summer time.

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Classic Worldtimer

Frederique Constant has redesigned the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture and presents its latest version with a sophisticated brown colour pattern. A dark brown design of the world map finely etched onto to the dial and the twenty-four cities on its outer rim make you wish for the next destination. The date by hand at 6 o’clock seamlessly combines with the Worldtimer function without disrupting the aesthetic of the watch. And even though the dial is busy with information, indexes on each hour make reading the time an easy and simple task. Rose gold-plated stainless steel and brown patterns make the new Worldtimer, an elegant and sophisticated travelling watch. In order to hold the 139 parts and measuring 30mm, the Manufacture has been able to create an in-house developed, produced and assembled calibre, namely FC-718. The Worldtimer function is completely controlled by the crown. Thus, no additional push buttons or correctors were added which is aesthetically more pleasant and simpler to use. This Worldtimer features two discs, one displaying 24h day-night indication and a second one listing the twenty-four cities. Additionally, the watch holds a 42h power reserve.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer

Omega’s first ever Worldtimer, limited to 87 pieces, has all 24 main time-zones around the world displayed on the dial: composed of a city ring on the periphery (which shows 24 large cities), a central world map (to have a geographical representation of the time zones around the world) and finally a 24-hour disc that rotates over the day, and pointing the actual time it is in the 24 cities displayed. The outer-ring of the dial is made from solid, sandblasted platinum, with horizontal lines. Indexes and hands are done in 18-ct yellow gold, both coated with white luminous paint. Hands and indexes are facetted, with polished sides and brushed flat surfaces. A date window sits at 6, slightly recessed as it is under the Worldtimer module. The city ring depicts main global destinations, which are printed in red (GMT), black (+1h in summer) or blue (places without daylight savings). A small detail to note is the GMT+1 city, which usually reads Paris but here Omega chose to print Bienne (French for Biel, where Omega’s headquarters are located). The 24-hour ring is classical, with day-time on a white back ground and night-time on a dark blue background. The central world map on this 43 mm watch is made with a sapphire crystal disc, upon which the map has been hand-crafted in enamel. The entire display is controlled by the crown (no pushers or recessed buttons in the caseband) and is powered by the calibre 8939. Based on the 89xx series, this movement shares the twin-barrel for a longer power reserve (60 hours) and a more stable delivery of the torque. The co-axial escapement is, of course, part of the package. It is a Master Chronometer movement and offers a massive resistance to magnetic fields. The decoration is classical for the brand, with arabesque Geneva stripes, and gold rotor and balance bridge.

PATEK PHILIPPE World Time Ref. 5230G New York 2017 Limited Edition

Reference 5230G-001 in white gold, remain a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s collections. Some of the most highly valued and horologically interesting watches from Patek Philippe, are its world time watches, which it began producing as the reference 1415 in 1939. Patek has released a number of special editions including the reference 5230 New York Special Edition 2017 in a case measuring 38.5mm x 10.23mm. The distinguishing feature of this reference is the dial. The metal relief image shows the Manhattan skyline (the same view used for the cloisonné enamel dial of the reference 5531 World Time Minute Repeater). There will be a total of 300 produced and as with all the Patek models released in conjunction with the Art Of Watches Grand Exhibition opening in New York, it will be retailed in the U.S. only.