From Russia with Love

From Russia with Love

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Many masterpieces from Cartier are seen as concepts that encompass innovation in artistic representation along with the possibility of potential evolution – By Hiren Kumar Bose

The Grand Kremlin Palace

Cartier. The name is synonymous with exquisite jewellery. For over 150 years the crowned heads of Europe and the elite around the world have long adored the Cartier family’s creations.

Cartier designs are not radically different, but superb in their own way. Thanks to their craftsmanship, they have achieved unrivalled beauty in their creations during each period E-Government Framework 3.6 Download. In fact, their craftsmanship, connoisseurs vouch, has always been impeccable.“You don’t buy a Cartier design like that for its intrinsic value. You buy it for the design, workmanship and the way it lies perfectly on a woman’s clothes,” says Camilla Dietz Bergeron, a dealer in antique, period, estate and contemporary jewellery.

Cartier’s story began in Paris around 1855 when the countess of Nieuwerkerke made her first purchase from the firm. This event was not without significance: her husband, the Count of Nieuwerkerke, had executed a statue of Napoleon III that was highly appreciated. He had also been appointed Superintendent of Fine Arts, thanks to his connection with Princess Mathilde. He then served as the link between Cartier and the princess, who also became a client.

Brooch

Pendant

Stomacher Brooch

Mathilde’s name figures in over two hundred entries in the Cartier ledgers, documenting her enthusiasm for the jeweller’s work Exo Tempo download. By 1859, an order for a silver tea set placed by Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, represented supreme recognition and consecration for Cartier.

While Cartier’s first contacts with imperial Russia can be traced back to 1860, the jeweller would truly win over the country’s aristocracy after Pierre Cartier’s first visits to Moscow and St Petersburg in 1904 and 1905.

Brooch

Among the several pictures in the Cartier archives is one of Pierre Cartier swathed in woollens all over, save his face, seated on a sleigh pulled by three dark horses eyetv 다운로드.

Prince Saltikov, Cartier’s first Russian customer, purchased an emerald bracelet mounted on black-enamelled gold in 1886. Won over by Cartier, he established the jeweller’s reputation in the imperial court.

Later, the Grand Duke Alexis and Marie Pavlovna – born Princess von Mecklenburg- Schwerin and wife of the Grand Duke Vladimir, son of Alexander II – visited the jeweller in Paris in 1900 and became clients at Rue de la Paix.

From then on, Russian aristocracy would not stop persuading Cartier to set up shop in their country. Maria Pavlovna and Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, widow of Alexander III, ranked among the jeweller’s most fervent admirers 못된사랑 다운로드. Maria Pavlovna had the power to make and break reputations, such as Diaghilev’s, who once favoured by the Grand Duchess suddenly fell into disgrace. She, nevertheless, always remained faithful to the work of Cartier as reflected by the many pieces she commissioned, including an emerald and diamond aigrette, a six-string pearl choker with two imperial eagles in diamonds and a briolette- cut diamond pendant, to name a few.

Snake Necklace

Vanity Case

In 1907 Maria Feodorovna visited Rue de la Paix where Louis Cartier, knowing her love for jewellery, presented his most beautiful creations King of 99. She also expressed a desire to see Cartier open a branch in St Petersburg, a wish that was partly granted when a temporary exhibition was organised during Christmas in 1907 at the Grand Hotel Europe on the banks of the Neva. Thanks to Maria Feodorovna, the entire Russian aristocracy flocked to marvel at Cartier’s diamonds, corsage ornaments and exquisite accessories such as a veil pin discreetly decorated with interlaced motifs that had once belonged to Princess Yusupov. In 1907 Tsar Nicolas appointed Cartier as an official supplier to the Imperial court. Next year Cartier opened a salesroom in St Petersburg.

The last member of the Romanov family to flee Russia, Maria Pavlovna, escaped in 1919 aboard a private train headed for the Black Sea and Greece, but without her jewels 메세지 다운로드. An English diplomat, however, offered to collect them clandestinely from St Petersburg. These historic pieces were later to be inherited by her four children. However, other pieces were taken
apart and sold off, as was the case with one of her necklaces, from which Cartier purchased the hexagonal emeralds, inherited from Catherine the Great. In 1947 these fabulous stones went on to adorn the tiara of yet anotherlegendary woman, Barbara Hutton, the Woolworth heiress.

In the beginning of the 1990s, Cartier returned to Russia and in 1996 opened a boutique in Moscow Windows Cursor. Cartier uses Louvre’s point of sales since they believe they have the best distribution network.

In 2002 Cartier formed its own subsidiary in Moscow and a Cartier team was stationed there to help develop the brand. Two new boutiques were opened at the end of 2003 – one in Moscow and the other in Ekaterinburg – and watches and accessories were also to be found in St Petersburg, Rostov and Saratov. A new boutique is scheduled for Kiev in the near future.

In its own subsidiary in Russia, only Cartier fragrances are sold through distributors 파이어폭스 퀀텀 다운로드. In a country known for its cultural sophistication, the House of Cartier in May 2007 staged an exhibition called ‘Cartier Innovation Through the 20th Century’ which opened in a glamorous museum located in the heart of the Kremlin, a stone’s throw from the famous Red Square and Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It was an important event for Cartier as it was the first time that a jewellery house was welcomed into the highly protected citadel of the former Tsars, now home to the President of Russia. This exhibition was hosted in the exhibition room of the Assumption Cathedral, at the foot of Ivan the Great bell-tower. The creative ideas that lay behind these timeless creations, coupled with the highest level of professional craftsmanship, became the benchmark for many other jewellers yinyuetai. Many of the exhibited masterpieces produced by Cartier became extraordinary illustrations of various styles admired during centuries past. Today, they are seen as concepts that encompass innovation in artistic representation together with the possibility of potential evolution. The exhibition comprised a selection of jewellery, watches, clocks, lorgnettes and other precious objects created by the House of Cartier in Paris between 1847 and 1955, hence the retrospective nature of this exhibition.

The show came 85 years after the first Cartier exhibition in Russia, also in St Petersburg.  (Interestingly, it was at the 1907 show that Louis Cartier was named official purveyor of jewellery to the Imperial Court of Russia) Inisys plugin.

What is the unifying link between the 165 objects specially assembled for the unique presentation inside Moscow’s famous Kremlin museums? Chosen one by one from among the 1,300 items in the Cartier Collection, each piece of jewellery, watch, clock, accessory – all made of the rarest metals and gemstones – illustrates, in its own way, a unique jewellery- making skill, some technical or artistic innovation (often both), or a given period or lifestyle. They offer unique testimony to the way Cartier developed its vision of jewellery and timepieces. This journey revealed several shared characteristics that are the main features of the Cartier style.

First of all comes the primordial importance of design; the fact that prices paid at auction for Cartier jewellery constantly break new records is proof that their value goes far beyond the intrinsic value of the materials. Next, design must be served by a technical virtuosity that constantly seeks to transcend itself, because that is what distinguishes a fine creative jeweller from a simple jewel merchant. Finally, every creation by the House of Cartier displays balance and harmony – from a stomacher brooch to a mystery clock via a Tank watch, everything hinges on finely balanced proportions and harmonious colours. The founders’ passion for the jeweller’s craft and their obsession with perfect design and execution have been successfully passed on. Over a 160-year period spanning the nineteenth century to the twenty-first, the House of Cartier has developed a solid link that unites all its creations, a style all its own. One of the most spectacular pieces is the ‘Tutti Frutti’ necklace and earring set made in 1936 of sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. Cartier bought it back last year at an auction.

The Cartier Collection brings to life not only the tradition of the firm but also the history of jewellery design and, indeed, of a society undergoing major changes. Where other jewellers added layer upon layer of embellishment, Cartier paved the way for its future abstract style.