Classical Theory
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The five watches unveiled at BaselWorld 2013 by Breguet demonstrates the Manufactures technical virtuosity and displays the outcome of its research into high frequency and magnetism
Breguet has extended the scientific boundaries of time measurement and made mechanical movements ever more precise. The brand’s early inventions as the parechute shock protection, the raised terminal curve of the balance-spring that takes Breguet’s name, and of course the tourbillon, have not only made their mark on horology, but have also had a lasting influence on watchmaking methods. In 2006, Breguet introduced its first watches with silicon balance-springs and escapements. This technical achievement at the end of several years of development improved their timekeeping performance. At the same time, the company widened its research into high frequency and magnetism. In 2013, Breguet with its five new watches continues to open the road to new horizons.
BREGUET CLASSIQUE CHRONOMÉTRIE 7727
The watch, in rose or white gold is fitted with the new Hand-wound calibre 574DR, which takes advantage of the latest developments from the workshops to deliver impressive rating results. This achievement was mainly due to its balance frequency of 10Hz. When it was applied for the first time in the Type XXII chronograph, this frequency was shown to have improved the time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. Breguet’s mastery of silicon enables the Classique Chronométrie to be fitted with a double balance-spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, all in specially prepared silicon that reaches the high frequency necessary for optimum precision. The result is a regulating power equivalent to around 830 microwatts, an achievement when one considers that the regulating capacity of the best chronometers is between 300 and 400 microwatts. Despite its high frequency, the reference 7727 has a power reserve of 60 hours thanks not only to the energy stored in its barrels, but also to the very high quality of its balance. However, the major innovation of this Classique Chronométrie model is without doubt the use of magnetic pivots. It is likely that the impact of this invention will not be felt for a few years yet. With the magnetic pivot, Breguet not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff. Breguet’s watchmakers have designed a stable system using two endstones incorporating powerful micro-magnets (approx. 1.3 teslas) that keep the balance staff centred and self-adjusting. Held in an artificial gravitational force, the balance staff is unaffected by the different positions of the watch and the conditions at each pivot remain unchanged. If a shock knocks the balance staff sideways, the system acts like a pare-chute to return it to its position, except that magnetic forces re-centre the staff to regain maximum magnetic flux. The result is a balance that is insensitive to gravity, more stable and resistant to shocks. These innovations bring the reference 7727’s average rate to -1/+3 seconds a day, well within the COSC chronometer standard of -4/+6 seconds a day. More importantly, the difference in rate between the six positions has been brought down to -2/+4 seconds a day (maximum wind). No fewer than six patents protect these technical achievements.
The dial Classique Chronométrie shows an off-centre chapter of hours and minutes, small seconds at 12 o’clock, a power-reserve indicator at 5 o’clock and a tenth-of-a-second indicator at 1 o’clock having a patented lightweight silicon hand with low inertia that doesn’t affect the balance. The pare-chute is visible at 2 o’clock, both as a reminder of A-L Breguet’s 1790 invention and to make the timepiece slimmer.
The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. The hands are in polished steel with the Breguet open tip, while the case in rose or white gold displays delicate fluting. The welded lugs, the unique number and the secret signature complete the marks of the watch’s pedigree. The case, on a leather strap is water resistant to 30m and has a sapphire-crystal back to display the fine workmanship of the movement.
BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-THIN AUTOMATIC 5377
The manufacturing company has designed the reference 5377 Classique Tourbillon extra thin automatic for admirers of this complication who wish to wear as thinner watch. This 42mm watch has all its identifying attributes as a Breguet product, including its engine-turned dial and open-tippedBreguet hands, welded lugs, fine fluting on the caseband, unique number and secret signature. This complicated watch is distinguished by its off-centre tourbillon, which is protected by several patents. The tourbillon carriage and the balance are in titanium, the balance-spring is made of silicon and the escapement is in silicon and anti-magnetic steel. The new calibre 581DR fitted into this timepiece beats at 4Hz—a high frequency for a tourbillon—without sacrificing power reserve. The patented ‘high-energy’ barrel provides 90 hours of running time. To keep the height of the movement down to 3mm in a 7mm thick case, Breguet’s watchmakers have placed the bi-directional platinum winding rotor on the edge of the movement. This new movement, protected by two patents, has been made into a work of art; the fine engraving and superb workmanship can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback. A blue sapphire crowns the centre of the tourbillon bridge to draw the eye down from the hands. The case, on a leather strap, is water resistant to 30m.
