BEST OF PERRELET
Its ancestry going back to the 18th-century watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet, the brand recently debuted in a Hindi movie. Hiren Kumar Bose selects the five best examples of the brand known for its traditional automatic calibre, patented double rotor movement and tourbillion
Diamond Flower Amytis
The Collection pays tribute to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world and doubtless the most beautiful, while evoking the grace and beauty of Amytis of Media, Queen of Babylon. The collection is equipped with a movement automatically wound via an oscillating weight, the Double Rotor P-181-H, patented by Perrelet and entirely produced in-house. It affords the opportunity of observing two rotors: one on the dial side, and the other on the movement side. Their perfectly synchronized coordination drives the barrel and ensures more efficient winding. The rotor on the dial side depicts flower petals swaying in time with wrist movements and creating a suspended effect in reference to the hanging gardens of Babylon. The collection is composed of three models, featuring a stainless steel 36.5 mm-diameter stainless steel case fitted with a see-through sapphire crystal case back. A model with a black or white mother-of-pearl dial which is enhanced by an open-worked Double Rotor shaped like flower petals and partially set with diamonds. The luxury version is distinguished by a diamond-set bezel framing a white and anthracite dial, while the Double Rotor is adorned with petals and enhanced by white mother-of-pearl and diamonds. On all three models, elegant Roman numerals converge towards the centre endow this collection with an ultimate touch of character and originality.
“Lab” Collection
Building on its mastery of all phases involved in producing a watch in-house via its own Manufactures, ranging from the development and production of movement components – including the escapement, the regulating organ and the balance-spring – to designing and crafting the cases, dials and finishing work, Perrelet has thus given rise to the LAB. The stainless steel 42 x 42 mm case is cushion-shaped with soft, rounded lines along with brushed and polished lugs. The case middle features a vertical decoration composed of tiny raised rectangles. The polished octagonal bezel with its satin-brushed profile endows the model with considerable character. The case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal is assembled with six screws, forming a sturdy and strong case guaranteed water-resistant to 5 bars. Particular attention has been devoted to the architecture of the dial boasting an original construction. A three-dimensional effect is achieved by the multi-level structure graced with a variety of finishes. The dial available in silver-toned, anthracite or black versions features a central part adorned with vertical lines, while the rim is circular-brushed. The cut-out hour-markers enhanced with white SuperLuminova are applied to a sapphire crystal ring, giving the impression that they are literally floating on air. The unusual decision to use a transparent element was specifically intended to enable the owner of the LAB watch to admire the most distinctive feature of this timepiece: it’s oscillating weight. This technical innovation was made possible by Calibre P-411, produced within the Manufacture. The oscillating weight is fixed to a toothed wheel (with toothing on the inside) known as a “couronne”, itself positioned on the outer part of the movement that meshes with a pinion placed on the outer rim of the movement. The rotor is adorned with a screw-down plate bearing a slanted-line decoration that may be admired through the transparent hour’s ring. Displaying the hours, minutes and seconds by central hands and the date at 6 o’clock, the Lab has a 42-hour power reserve.
First Class Skeleton
Designed to appeal to the discerning eye of the connoisseur, including by its fluted profile, the 4N 18-ct pink gold case of the First Class Skeleton measures 42.50 mm in diameter and is 10.70 mm thick. These are perfect dimensions in which to house a Manufacture-made mechanical automatic Perrelet movement: the P-381 skeleton version with three functions, namely central hands indicating hours, minutes and seconds and a date at 6 o‘clock. The Manufacture’s inherent perfectionism is reflected in every part composing its elegant creations, starting with the incredible feat represented by the skeleton-working of the P-381 movement. The latter is thus transformed into an exquisite metallic lacework, notably featuring the extreme hollowing of the winding weight bearing the brand initial and visible through the see-through sapphire crystal case back glare-proofed on both sides. Also protected by a sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, the dial tells its fascinating story. The watch features a large central opening revealing the intricate workings of the gleaming Perrelet movement.
Turbine Pilot Collection
The Collection associates the Turbine concept with that of the circular aviation slide rule: a new technical and stylistic exercise for a truly unique aviator watch. At the heart of the collection beats the mechanical automatic P-331 calibre entirely developed and produced in-house at the brand’s production sites.
The four models in the collection assert a unique character marrying power and elegance. The stainless steel cases display a generous 48 mm-diameter featuring the Perrelet’s distinctive fluted pattern. Ensuring a resolutely masculine and sporty look, some models come in steel cases with a black PVD coating, a treatment ensuring excellent protection and enhancing the refined aesthetics of the watch. The bidirectional rotating dial ring is activated via a crown at 3 o’clock, while the time is set with an integrated crown at 9 o’clock. The luminescent white hour-markers and four Arabic numerals meticulously applied on the sapphire dial, above the Turbine, make a striking contrast with the yellow and black background: a combination of typical aviation colors that is further intensified when the Turbine is in action. The cleverly layered arrangement of the elements gives this collection a distinctive three-dimensional look. To ensure optimal readability, the dial and the spiral at the dial centre are luminescent white. The straps chosen for this collection are in black rubber or calf leather. The latter is ingeniously constructed in a manner guaranteeing an optimal fit and absolute comfort.
Turbillon
The name Turbillon stands for a Tur (bine) with a (tour)billon. Its veil offers the admiring gaze a chance to plunge into the innovative heart of a prestigious movement, the tourbillon. Observers may admire its hand-crafted finishing including a delicate Côtes de Genève motif adorning the baseplate and bridges revealed through the back of the watch. Calibre P-371 displays the hours and minutes in the centre and the hands are fixed to the heart of a circle forming a lucky “figure 8” with the circumference of the tourbillon carriage visible at 12 o’clock. Around it, the black dial is enhanced by a raised structure available in two versions and echoing the blades of the turbine. The case adopts a new 46-mm diameter and features reinforced triple lug attachments. The distinctive wheel spinning freely above the dial appears in a transparent version affording unobstructed views, as this evolution of the initial concept opens up whole new vistas. The Turbillon debuts a refined turbine carved out of noble sapphire. The transparent blades discreetly enliven the dial and reveal the tourbillon. The prestigious mechanism incorporates an innovative escapement with an oxidized silicon wheel and lever, at the heart of an exclusive self-winding movement developed by the sister company in the Vallée de Joux. The collection in three variations – black DLC-coated steel and natural steel, all-black, or two-tone black DLC-coated steel and pink gold – is issued in a 60-piece limited edition comprising 20 of each version.
