Hiren Kumar Bose on the Haute Horlogerie for women with new movements, bigger diamonds, robust sports cases and métiers dials
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Planetarium
The piece captures the Sun, Mercury, Venus, Earth and the Moon on the dial and has a diamond-studded oscillating weight visible from the transparent sapphire crystal case back. The 38 mm watch is rendered in white gold and comes with a diamond-set bezel. Available both on a strap and on a diamond-set bracelet.
CARTIER Révélation D’une Panthère
You realize the understated beauty of the watch when told that it took five years of development. Cartier has patented the special movement that reveals the panther motif rendered in gold beads on the black lacquer dial by the movements of the wrist. The 37 mm pink gold watch features a manually wound Calibre 430 MC. The piece comes in three dial colours – red, green and black. Versions of the green and red watches will be limited to 100.
BULGARI Diva Finissima Minute Repeater
As a tribute to the 100-year anniversary of its first jewellery timepiece, this is world’s thinnest minute repeater movement in a ladies’ watch and chimes the time on demand. The grand complication is activated by the gem-set charm. The case and lugs are likewise set with diamonds. The dial is created using the ancient Japanese Urushi lacquer technique.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Metiers d’Art Les Aerostiers
Each of the beautifully crafted 40mm timepieces in the series features a hot-air balloon on the dial. The balloons were painstakingly engraved and contrasted with a dial featuring plique-à-jour enamel – a technique used for the first time by Vacheron. The series pays tribute to French aerostiers who flew the hot-air balloons in about the 18th century. The Calibre 2460 G4/1 is an automatic movement manufactured by Vacheron Constantin.
ROLEX Pearlmaster 39
The Rolex Pearlmaster 39 in white gold, with a diamond-paved dial and diamond-set Pearlmaster bracelet. The Rolex Pearlmaster is Rolex’s crowning jewellery watch. Very few watchmaking companies besides Rolex master all the aspects of dial creation in-house. Mother-of-pearl, gold, meteorite and diamonds are just some of the fine materials used to ensure the beauty and individual character of each Rolex dial.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX Cat’s Eye Day and Night
Against a background of aventurine, framed with diamonds, a 24-hour disc with sun and moon motifs indicates day or night behind a screen of diamonds. A fringe of multi-sized diamonds frames the crown, accentuating the legendary shape of this collection: a circle nested in an oval. Pushing the boundaries of optical illusion, the bezel is set with a ring of imposing diamonds that spill over onto the lugs. The stones are held by prongs that ensure their stability while also flaunting each and every facet. This astronomical complication requires no independent adjustment, as the Manufacture has chosen to synchronise it with the hours and minutes. . This 218-part movement with its 46-hour power reserve is also distinguished by its splendid finishing. The bridges and the mainplate are straight-grained on the sides and on the rounded parts of the ridges. The transparent case-back provides a chance to admire the meticulous craftsmanship that enhances the power of this exceptional model.
CHOPARD 25th anniversary Happy Sport
The watch with freely moving diamonds between two sapphire crystals over the dial the brand celebrates the milestone fitting it with an in-house automatic movement, with functions that include hours, minutes and a graceful sweep seconds hand. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback, a rare visual treat on a ladies’ watch. The dial is made of rare textured mother-of-pearl that has naturally occurring wave-like motifs. There are four cases (30 mm wide and 10.95 mm thick) options, including stainless steel, 18-ct gold or a combination of the two metals, with or without diamonds. The mother-of-pearl dials can be white or in a soft pastel shade of either pink or blue. Five bezel-set diamonds move freely between sapphire crystals over the dial.
CORUM Heritage Sublissima
Shimmering with 25 diamonds, Corum’s new jewellery watch measures up to its graceful name by revealing a mother-of-pearl heart housed in a 38 mm diameter case. A typical bezel is set with about a carat total in diamonds, but this year bezels were set with between 3 and 6 total carats of diamonds, often prong-set to let more light into the pavilions. The bezel of the Corum Heritage Sublissima is set with 6.16-ct of diamonds.