Hiren Kumar Bose raises the curtain to Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2018 which opens coming January in Geneva with four outstanding watches
ROTONDE DE CARTIER Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon
In 2013 Cartier watchmaking unveiled a tourbillon which appears to be suspended in mid-air with no connection to the rest of the movement. The new avatar of the family is a double flying tourbillion that effects a complete rotation in 60 seconds, while the tourbillon cage performs a second rotation in which each round takes 5 minutes. This balancing act is all the more formidable in view of the finely constructed case and painstaking craftsmanship. All of the components are hand-finished: the bridges chamfered, flanks drawn and screw heads polished. The magic of the mysterious is encased in the transparency of the skeleton. The curves of the watch and mysterious movement are complemented by the stark geometric openwork architecture of the skeletonised bridges.
AUDEMARS PIGUET New Millenary
The women’s Millenary collection was launched in 2015 and three years later it comes with ‘second-skin type’ metal bracelets. The case and dial remain unchanged; however, the bracelet’s polish finishing completely transforms the watch, giving it a vintage look that matches the oval shape of the case and the roman numerals on the dial. Further to the Milanese bracelet, which was fashionable in the 50s and 60s, the Polish finishing on these metal bracelets offers a comfortable feel on the wrist, just like a second skin, and also provides a new, more supple meshing enriched by several adjustable links (every 5 mm) to perfectly fit every woman. The Polish bracelet is the result of rolling-up a thread around an axis. The Polish finishing offers new challenges to the production process, as each bracelet is individually handmade. In addition to the metal bracelets, the Millenary line is also enriched by a new version featuring an opal dial, introducing this fine stone for the first time on a Millenary timepiece. It also presents the Frosted Gold finishing technique, which Audemars Piguet has only used on the Royal Oak collection so far.
H. MOSER & CIE Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept represents an elegant yet contemporary reworking of the tourbillon. Positioned at 6 o’clock, the eye-catching flying tourbillon takes centre stage in the pared-back dial; appearing to float weightlessly. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is an ode to simplicity in white gold with the famous Funky Blue dial. Behind the skeleton bridge of the Moser minute tourbillon, the latest movement – the HMC 804 automatic calibre with three-day power reserve – can be seen beating. Powering this movement, the oscillating weight transfers the energy to the barrel via a bi-directional pawl-winding system which reduces the time required to fully wind the watch. Made from 18-ct solid red gold, the oscillating weight is skeletonised to reveal the mechanism beneath.
ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold
The Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold, starring a pink gold bezel and sophisticated black Alcantara strap like its predecessor is driven by a passion for cutting-edge technological complexity. Inspired by the dynamics of motorsport while adhering to fi¬rmly entrenched supercar codes, this Lamborghini-exclusive timepiece issued in an 8-piece limited edition features a multi-layer carbon skeleton case and is propelled by an impressive ‘engine’ in the shape of its specially developed trademark Duotor calibre. Superlative Italian aesthetics and mechanics meet the ultimate in Swiss high-end watchmaking, resulting in a new calibre inspired by the Aventador S engine