Hiren Kumar Bose previews three watches to be unveiled at the latest edition of SIHH
H. MOSER & CIE. Swiss Icons Watch
The 43mm watch revisits iconic watches from yesterday and today, fusing their various characteristic signatures into one balanced watch. It pays homage to those timepieces that have given Swiss watchmaking its reputation, but also renounces, with irreverent humour, the lack of substance that has characterised certain watchmakers for far too long. It also houses certain elements that have become H. Moser signatures, including a Funky Blue dial, a double hairspring made from PE5000, a paramagnetic alloy developed by Precision Engineering AG, as well as an interchangeable one-minute flying tourbillon. The watch will be auctioned off after the Salon with the proceeds from the sale going to the Fondation pour la Culture Horlogère Suisse (Foundation for Swiss Watchmaking Culture) and used to support apprenticeships in the watchmaking professions and to safeguard expertise in in the related arts and crafts.
DEWITT Academia Endless Drive
The 42.5 mm diameter round case-watch reveals an original design and has an endless screw as the dial’s distinguishing piece. The curves of the screw in unidirectional movement denote an irreversible rotation that fascinates the observer and serves as an allegory for time itself. As the 59-hour power reserve decreases, the screw rotates. When the barrel is wound, the screw slides on its longitudinal axis. The hours and minutes are indicated with two discs located at 9 and 3 o’clock that rotate around a fixed central piece. The watch creates an interplay of contrasting effects through the combination of traditional and innovative materials, 18-ct rose gold and black rubber, subtly recreating the famous imperial column motif, the distinctive signature of the brand with the symbol of Emperor Napoleon I. Two small “W” signatures are also found on the crown and on the buckle. The timepiece’s prowess lies in the design idea’s materialisation, which honours endless screw mechanism, animated in a decidedly unique way.
CARTIER Baignoire Interdite
To disorient the eye, turn the oval dial of the Baignoire white gold watch crosswise on the wrist. The gaze flickers between the top, where oversize Roman numerals wrap the case in strips coated in glossy black ADLC, and the bottom, where the diamond-ringed dial alternately emerges and hides. The paved bezel watch with ADLC Quartz movement is being launched in limited number of 50 pieces