A watch modelled on human behaviour, a minute repeater which activates golden oil rigs, a watch made of carbon resin composite that protects space shuttles and a unique timepiece that pays homage to the dual regulator. By Hiren Kumar Bose
VOUTILAINEN Vingt-8 ISO
How about a watch based on human behaviour as studied by a Nobel laureate? Master watchmaker and eponymous brand Voutilainen offers such a timepiece. The 39 mm watch has a completely innovative display of the time based on System 1 and System 2 human behaviour, propounded by Israeli-American psychologist notable for his work on the psychology of judgment and decision-making, as well as behavioral economics, for which he was awarded the 2002 Nobel Memorial Prize in Economics. The Vingt-8 ISO breaks with System 1 behaviour, whereby time is read at a glance using a deeply entrenched “code”, and instead elicits System 2 behaviour in which telling the time acquires a deeper, more intellectual dimension. This heightened awareness of time is translated by an hour and minute hands which are superimposed on each full hour and opposed at each half-hour. The angle between the two hands is always the same, whatever the time. The secret lies with the minute’s disc that turns with the hour hand so that the minute’s hand can mark the elapsed minutes.
ULYSSE NARDIN North Sea Minute Repeater
The glimmering champlevé rig, seen from a low angle, rising majestically from the black sea, with its delicately wrought waves in the foreground on a dramatic red sky highlights the stunningly detailed structure of this 42 mm watch while in the background, another golden oil rig works industriously away. Three 18-ct gold cranes – the Jaquemarts – move and sound when the minute repeater is activated indicating the hours, quarter hours and minutes. Minimal black indexes, and streamlined hour and minute hands allow the final results – the powerful champlevé rigs – to take center stage on the rose-gold dial. The 18-piece North Sea Minute Repeater represents the finest in Haute Horlogerie, melding centuries-old artisanship with cutting-edge technology.
VICTORINOX I.N.O.X. Carbon
You may not be an astronaut but wearing this 43mm watch is likely to make you feel one. Made from a carbon resin composite that protects space shuttles from re-entry temperatures in excess of 1,260°C, this watch combines high structural rigidity with scratch-resistance and hypoallergenic properties. An alternative to the natural rubber strap, a second strap is in Naimakka paracord – a multi-strand nylon used for parachute suspension lines that have a breaking strength of 250 kg – equips this I.N.O.X. Carbon for its multiple exploits.
MB&F Legacy Machine No 2 Titanium
It’s a distinctive watch considering its movement was developed to MB&F’s specifications by award-winning watchmaker Jean-François Mojon (Best Watchmaker at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)and his team at Chronode. While acclaimed independent and eponymous watchmaker Kari Voutilainen ensured that the movement’s aesthetic style was consistent with high-quality traditional timepieces of the 19th century and for specifying the superlative hand-finishing. Made of high-tech titanium alloy used in aerospace and medical applications, offering a perfect blend of strength and lightness, this 44mm x 19mm watch ensuring that its sits comfortably on the wrist. The spectacular PE-CVD-treated green dial catches the light from alternating angles coming alive with constantly changing iridescent sheens and hues of green and blue. A millimeter slimmer than those of its predecessors, the watch’s dual flying balances, suspended high above the dial from four gracefully arcing arms, may at first appear paradoxical. But make no mistake; LM2 is a timepiece tracing its lineage back over 250 years to three of the greatest watchmakers who ever lived: Abraham-Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Antide Janvier—men who constructed clocks and watches with two balances. The double balance wheels of LM2 pay homage to, one of the rarest mechanisms in the history of watchmaking: the dual regulator. And rarer still, the watch’s dual regulators are transmitted by a differential to a single gear train, where the majority had two separate movements.