Hiren Kumar Bose on the six tourbillions showcased during the recent Baselworld fair
CHOPARD L.U.C Flying T Twin
Limited to 50 pieces Chopard unveils its first calibre equipped with a flying tourbillon. Endowed with refined features, such as a gold dial embellished by hand with two beautiful guilloché patterns, harmonious proportions, an ultra-thin case measuring a mere 7.2 mm in height it is crafted from ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold, and the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark as well as a C.O.S.C. certificate for proven and tested precision. The flying tourbillon is highlighted through a large diameter aperture at 6 o’clock provides a view right into the movement. Due to the absence of an upper bridge, the physical and visual lightness of the “whirlwind” is used to create a sense of transparency and depth. Self-winding Calibre 96.24-L, just 3.30 mm thick, offers a 65-hour power reserve – supplied by two stacked barrels according to Chopard’s patented Twin technology – and is equipped with a 22-ct gold winding rotor.
HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon
The 42mm carbon-fibre cased watch with black or blue occlusions has a double edition limited to 100 models and beats to the rhythm of the new HUB6020 tourbillon movement, specially designed for this case. The watch is fitted with the “One-Click” fastening system, allowing the strap to be changed easily and quickly. For the first time in this collection, the barrel-shaped case is made of carbon-fibre integrating black or blue composites. In the same material, the bezel is held by 6 H-shaped titanium screws while the case back, also in carbon, surrounds a sapphire crystal. Structured, airy, technical; the driving force behind the new Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 42mm is a concentration of innovations and expertise. Specifically developed for this barrel-shaped case, the HUB6020 movement reveals an hours and minutes dial off-centre at 3 o’clock, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and an indicator for the 5-day power reserve at 8 o’clock. The two limited editions, in black carbon composite and blue carbon composite, with 100 models for each, come with a black structured rubber strap lined respectively in black or blue/black.
H. MOSER & CIE Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
The 43mm watch highlights one of the most traditional watch complications and combines it with a magnificent flying tourbillon in a twirling waltz. The two shaped chimes and the minute repeater hammers shine through against the lacquered black dial, intertwining the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. To develop this marvel of ingenuity, H. Moser & Cie. drew on the expertise of MHC Manufactures Hautes Complications SA, a specialist in minute repeaters. Together, the two manufactures created a brand-new design, showcasing the beauty of the complication by positioning the chimes and the hammers on the dial side. This involved overcoming many technical challenges. In particular, the chimes (which are placed on one level to preserve the finesse of the piece) had to be curved so as not to interfere with the flying tourbillon and to respect H. Moser & Cie.’s main focus to keep the design understated. The one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is certainly eye-catching. Visible behind a skeleton bridge, it is fitted to a ball bearing that improves the accuracy and chronometry. Resolutely contemporary and in line with modern times, the tourbillon appears to float weightlessly on the black lacquered dial stripped of both logo and indices.
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT
MB&F has finally created a timepiece dedicated exclusively to women. The Legacy Machine FlyingT is a three-dimensional creation, with a steeply cambered bezel and slender, bevelled lugs on a round case that is fully set with diamonds. The high, convex domed sapphire crystal hovers over a curved dial plate. An asymmetric opening frames a raised flying tourbillon escapement, the carriage of which is topped by a single large diamond. A dial of white or black lacquer with blued gold hands sits on a 50° tilt at the 7 o’clock position. The watch is set with either round-brilliant or baguette diamonds.
BULGARI Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon
This avatar of 42mm Octo Finissimo combines the world thinnest ultra-thin flying tourbillon with an innovative case material made of carbon CTP (Coal Tar Pitch). The movement, a technical marvel at only 1.95 mm thick, thanks partly to an innovative peripheral rotor. It is showcased in an openworked dial with black finishing, and can also be seen through a transparent caseback. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon is the thinnest-ever automatic carbon watch and is limited to 50 pieces.
GREUBEL FORSEY GMT Quadruple Tourbillon
A limited edition of 66 pieces in total, it is launched in an 11-piece limited edition in white gold. In bringing the Quadruple Tourbillon and the GMT mechanisms together, Greubel Forsey not only accomplished a major technical feat that led to the creation of a new hand-wound calibre comprising 705 parts, including three fast-rotating barrels and 84 olive-domed jewels in gold chatons. The inner tourbillons are inclined at a 30° angle and make one full rotation every minute while the outer tourbillons make a full rotation in 4 minutes. The main hours/minutes dial between 1 and 2 o’clock forms the highest point of the solid gold dial with anthracite time subdial, where it is underlined by the subtle asymmetry of the case and complemented by a 72-hour chronometric power-reserve display. The next level is it at 4 o’clock, with the coaxial small seconds and second-time-zone display which is adjustable in one-hour increments by means of a pusher. Located between 8 and 9 o’clock, one can admire the spectacular sight of the Earth in motion, surrounded by a fixed 24 hours ring around the Equator and displaying the local time for all the longitudes —simultaneously taking account of the day/night indicator on respectively light/dark zones. Additionally, a lateral window in the asymmetrical section of the case provides an unprecedented view of the Equator and the Southern hemisphere. The four tourbillons gravitate in two pairs on either side of the blue planet, each featuring an open and transparent construction, secured by flat black polished bridges and adorned with gold chatons as well as hand-polished beveling and countersinks. A GMT pusher conveniently located at 5 o’clock on the caseband allows the wearer to advance the time zones with one-click.