Hiren Kumar Bose on the 2018 BaselWorld timepieces which led to a discourse among the cognoscenti, thanks to their ingenuity
HARRY WINSTON Year of the Dog
Limited to only eight pieces each—the Midnight Dog Automatic 42mm and the Premier Dog Automatic 36mm –the charming Chow Chow comes to life through mother-of-pearl marquetry. The Chow Chow is highly symbolic and represents an ancient dog breed that is intimately associated with Chinese history and culture. Hailing from northern China, the breed is characterized by its blue tongue, curly tail, and thick double coat. The dog’s sturdy build and majestic mane inspired the name Chow Chow or “puffy-lion dog” in Chinese. The contours of the Chow Chow, in particular, were created using a technique borrowed from cloisonné enameling. The gold base forms the outline of the dog, while mother-of-pearl fills its body. Capturing the shimmering beauty of gold powder, the Havana-hued mother-of-pearl backdrop sparkles like a magical constellation, with gold accents individually set in expertly carved hollows. Fine lines engraved in the mother-of-pearl body, emphasize the richness of the Chow Chow’s coat and animate the dog with extraordinary volume and vitality. The ladies’ model is presented in a classic 36mm rose gold case from the Premier Collection and is embellished with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case, two brilliant-cut diamond hour markers and a dazzling emerald-cut diamond crowning the dial. The men’s limited edition model is housed in an elegant 42mm rose gold case from the Midnight Collection, and also features an emerald-cut diamond at 12 o’clock.
JAQUET DROZ Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel
Enriched with the most poetic of complications, the moon phase, as a tribute to the role of astral phenomena in the origins of watchmaking this 43mm in an 18-ct red gold watch with its figure-8 dial configuration, is rendered here in black Grand Feu enamel. The lower subsidiary dial is dominated by a realistic moon, engraved out of 22-ct gold and mounted on a black onyx disk that rotates. It is an astronomical moon phase, which means it requires correction only once every 122 years and is driven by an in-house automatic caliber with a silicon balance spring. A red-tipped hand indicates the date on an 18-ct gold ring surrounding the moon phase, while another hand indicates seconds. The moon phase can be set using the corrector at 8 o’clock.
CHOPARD L.U.C Quattro
The L.U.C Quattro offers nine full days of power reserve thanks to the patented Quattro technology with two pairs of piggyback barrels. Despite all its mechanical complexity, it’s a mere 3.7 mm tall. Silver-toned and vertical satin-brushed across its entire surface, it bears contrasting blue indexes and hands – this blue colour is obtained by a heating process and not by a lacquer. This new Quattro also has luminous hands and Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock. The dial features 3 additional functions: a sub-dial at 6 o’clock with the small second and the pointer date, an arched power reserve indication at 12 o’clock. The case, even though containing a 9-day power reserve movement, has slender proportions – even though bolder than the original model, with a 43mm diameter but only 8.84mm thick. For this 50-piece limited edition, which endows this certified chronometer with a maximum 216 hours of autonomy, while keeping a thickness of 3.7 mm.
CORUM Golden Bridge Joachim Horsley
This 29.50 mm x 42.20 mm rectangle watch in limited edition, launched in white gold and pink gold, is the brand’s first to feature a metallic decoration on its sapphire case back. It depicts extracts from the original scores of Bach, Mahler and Beethoven Corum has also teamed up with Reuge to mark this partnership and to give the “Golden Bridge Joachim Horsley” a unique presentation case. Specially designed for the artist, this music box will play three of the melodies personally arranged by Joachim Horsley. In addition to this co-creation, Corum will also now be giving its clients – music lovers or not – the chance to create their own Golden Bridge based on the same model.
BREITLING Navitimer 8 B01
The 8 in its name is a nod to the Huit Aviation Department, which was set up in 1938 to produce cockpit instruments as well as classic pilot’s watches for civilian and military use. At the time, Willy Breitling chose the name “Huit,” the French word for “eight,” as a reference to the eight-day power reserve offered by its storied cockpit instruments. Presented in stainless steel as well as in 18-ct red gold, each with the exclusive Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01– this high-quality self-winding movement is equipped with a ratchet-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling and provides a power reserve of more than 70 hours’ duration. The watch offers functions like Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Chronograph Seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour Chronograph counters and Date.
SWAROVSKI Crystal Lake
The highlight of the collection—it puts the wrist in the spotlight. The eye-catching dial is a feat of the brand’s ingenuity. Housed in a sleek and minimalist case, and crafted from a single piece of sapphire crystal, the watch dial reflects light like the surface of a pristine lake, making this timepiece a must-have for any woman wanting to get noticed.
GRAND SEIKO Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A.
The abbreviation “V.F.A.” in the name refers to Grand Seiko’s adage “Very Finely Adjusted” and this anniversary VFA model is rated to +3/-1 seconds per day, versus +5/-3 seconds per day for the standard Hi-Beat caliber 9S85 making it one of the most precise mechanical watches that rely on the traditional lever escapement. On the occasion of Caliber 9S’s 20th anniversary, Seiko created a series of three limited-edition timepieces. Among them the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 V.F.A. in 950 platinum which is limited to a mere 20 pieces?
ROLEX GMT Master II
Rolex invented the “GMT” dual time-zone function back in the 1950s, its most famous iteration being the blue/red “Pepsi” versions that divided the bezel into separate hemispheres. Once Rolex adopted ceramic for its bezels, it reserved the Pepsi combo for a version in white gold. Finally, this year Rolex has brought the Pepsi GMT back in steel, with a magnificent Jubilee bracelet to boot.
NOMOS GLASHUTTE Autobahn Neomatik 41 Date
Nomos’s first sports watch is the result of a creative collaboration with Berlin-based designer Werner Aisslinger. The speedometer-esque, semi-circular markings glow brightly in the dark, while the dial is also notable for its bowl-like curve. With clear forms, steep curves, novel displays, perfect surfaces create a sense of motion. Autobahn comes in three versions. Bold curves, unusual depths, displaying time on many levels: The dial of Autobahn introduces new dimensions with its three-lane date window.