In a chat with Mitrajit Bhattacharya, Guido Terreni, Managing Director of the Watch Business Unit, Bvlgari Group talks about the brand’s key launch and new additions to the Octo line
LVCEA is Bvlgari’s key launch at BaselWorld 2014.
The name LVCEA comes from light. Bvlgari linked luce, the Italian for “light,” with lux in Latin to name its LVCEA Collection. Use of diamonds and stones make this piece bright and interesting. It has a lot of charisma and character. It pays tribute to the heritage of the brand, to the coloured gemstones in the crown and the Bvlgari cut stones. We have a very iconic jewellery bracelet that is rooted in the DNA of the brand through the Serpenti family. It’s the most beautiful and high-end bracelet we have in our ladies collection—an everyday bracelet. We have this V shape that is on the side. So, this is a little bit a point of reference to the V of Bvlgari. With a collection of 12 different styles, LVCEA ranges from a classic steel version to the luxury of pink gold and pavé diamonds. This dense creative offer includes a rich marriage of steel and pink gold. The preciousness of various models is accentuated by sparkling diamonds on every hour, or with the glow of mother of pearl. Most Asians, namely the Chinese, the Japanese and the Indians like this material. Even westerners too like it.
Is the red collection kind of common for all the watches in this line?
All of them have red collection like the Serpenti, like the Bvlgari-Bvlgari, and it’s really across the board.
How has the initial response been?
It was awarded in the Paris Fashion Week as the best feminine watch. Women immediately got connected to its glamour—its Dolce Vita mood.
Any new introduction with the iconic Serpenti?
I was a bit disappointed all this while of not being able to put diamonds on the Tubogas. The Tubogas, as you know are made of two strings that fold around a wrist. They are 0.9mm thick so it’s too thin to set the stone. Since 1940, when we introduced this technique, Bvlgari has never managed to put diamonds on this bracelet. Being a jeweller not having a diamond on bracelet, was quite a limitation. So, we completely reviewed the way of doing this Serpenti and separated the elements on which the spring is inserted. Each of these elements has a different dimension. And that’s how we could introduce diamonds on the Serpenti bracelet. I feel that’s a huge step forward with the iconic line.
You are also introducing newer versions in the Octo line.
The Octo line come in a number of versions. While the Octo’s case has traditionally been offered in a 41.5-mm-diameter size, it now comes in a new 38-mm version that plays with the kinds of metal combinations and contrasts to which the overall aesthetic of the watch lends itself so well. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon comes with a major complication: its 1.95-mm-thick movement makes this flying tourbillon simply the slimmest on the market. The Octo Finissimo with extra-thin Finissimo calibre, developed and manufactured in-house, is among the best in this category. Octo Solotempo is now available in a slightly smaller case that measures 38 mm in diameter. Its heart beats to the rhythm of the Solotempo calibre, a self-winding mechanical movement that displays hours, minutes, seconds, as well as the date in a window. And lastly, the Octo Velocissimo, a technically oriented thoroughbred which wears the face of a chronograph has been made in pure clas-sic watchmaking tradition. Three counters arranged in a “V” balance the watch face: minutes at 3 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, and seconds at 9 o’clock. All of this information is harmoniously positioned on an elegant hand-polished and lacquered black dial. It comes with Zenith’s El Primero base movement.
Did you get requests to make it slightly smaller?
Yes, because the Octo in 41mm looks bigger than what it is. So, we went for a second size that is 40 mm. For example, even if I am wearing a tight shirt with the cufflinks, the watch goes inside. It’s contemporary. The industry follows traditions so you go and see brands that are an expression of watch making like a round basic watch, which is very neat.
Can we know about your Grande Complication?
The second Grande Complication that we are introducing is the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo. It means Admiral of Time. It refers to the maritime universe and evokes the era of sailboats and seafaring conquests of the history’s great naval powers: France, England, Spain and Portugal. But why admiral, what does Bvlgari have to do with Navy? Navy is not in our DNA, but it is in watch making—marine chronometer as you may be aware. Four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater and a Westminster chime activated by an innovative repeater slide, the striking mechanism of Bvlgari’s new Grande Complication model L’Ammiraglio del Tempo, is presented with a detent escapement and a constant-force device; the latter is a regulating organ that embodies the ultimate level of horological complexity.
Does being a part of LVMH and a sister company to Zenith help you in acquiring expertise on marine chronometers?
No really. Just we have an external developer who worked on the escapement because we don’t do escapements. We do all the complications. This is a development that was started much before the acquisition, for six long years.