Hiren Kumar Bose profiles the new arrivals in the stores
BREGUET Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel
Inspired by the neoclassical lines, Breguet adds a fresh new touch with the colour of the blued hands being transposed onto the dial of 38mm Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel, its case made of 18-ct white gold with finely fluted caseband. To guarantee this exact nuance throughout the production process, the development of the pigments called for extensive research. The colour needs to remain perfectly stable during firing at over 800 degrees Celsius. To ensure ease of readability, the moon-tipped hands made of rhodium-plated steel stand out against the blue background. The Arabic numerals, stars and diamond shapes are silvered and are larger in size. The date figures are treated using the same process in order to aid visibility, due to the positioning of the aperture that sits in a darkened lower level window. Finally, Breguet’s secret signature, also in enamel, appears at 6 o’clock. An individual number is engraved on the back of each watch, marking it unique to its owner. In turn, the owner can have their name recorded in the Breguet registers that have been kept since 1780 – as a contemporary sign of their taste for timeless elegance.
The brand’s Eco-Drive watches can generate power from any light source be it artificial or natural — the watches keep running without ever replacing batteries. Citizen also makes the components that go into the watches. It was back in 1976 that Citizen invented the world’s first light-powered analogue quartz watch that runs using only light as a power source.
ULYSSE NARDIN Freak X
Ulysse Nardin presents a brand-new Manufacture flying carrousel movement rotating around its own axis with no dial and no hands, the 43mm Freak X which has a crown for time correction, which breaks with one of the most iconic aspects of the crown-less Freak Vision or Freak Out models, which correct time by the bezel. The “baguette” movement is still a carousel, turning once on itself every hour to indicate the time. It is simpler, bolder, and has fewer wheels. It has no dial and no hands – the central bridge acts as a minute hand and one of the wheels indicates the hours. Inside and clearly visible beats a super-light balance wheel in silicium, extra-wide, with nickel flyweights and stabilizing micro-blades. The movement itself, the new UN-230, is a fusion of the manufacture calibres UN-118 and Freak Vision UN-250.The case, nicely rounded with curved lines, is wholly new, and seriously transformative. The new Freak X is available in titanium, rose gold, black DLC or in Carbonium –a super-light and sustainable material used in the aeronautical sector for the latest-generation aeroplanes’ fuselage and wings.
TAG HEUER Autavia 42
Part of the stand-alone collection, the stainless-steel Autavia 42 mm three-hand models feature the rounded first-generation Autavia case and bevelled lugs from the 1960s. A bidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale in black ceramic, blue ceramic or stainless steel enhances the sporty look of the watch. The XL crown takes inspiration from pilot’s watches and timers that used oversized crowns to make them easier to use while wearing gloves. The hour markers and hour, minute and seconds hands are coated in SuperLuminova®, making it possible to read the time even in darkness. The smoked dial is available in black, grey or blue, and has a date window at 6 o’clock. The strap or bracelet of every model in the Autavia collection is interchangeable. The leather calfskin straps come in dark brown or light brown. A NATO strap is included in the watch box of the timepieces that are presented on a stainless-steel bracelet. Powering the Autavia three-hand timepieces is the chronometer-certified Calibre 5. The new Autavia models feature the cutting-edge carbon-composite hairspring, developed by in-house mathematicians, physicists and chemists. The combination of the calibre and the carbon-composite hairspring gives every model in this collection Isograph distinction. The propeller and tyre that are etched into the stainless-steel or titanium case back are a nod to the collection’s rich heritage. In addition to the stainless-steel Autavia three-hand models, TAG Heuer has also launched two versions in bronze.
OMEGA Constellation “Manhattan”
The Constellation Collection has long been the brand’s symbol of unrivalled precision in watchmaking. Since 1952, the Constellation collection has been symbolised by the inspiring “observatory under the stars” medallion on the casebacks of many models. Its meaning has deep significance within Omega and also has a modern interpretation that is truly relevant to the brand today. Omega watches have to pass eight tests in order to become a Master Chronometer. Set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the tests are the most stringent within the industry, proving a standard of precision, performance and magnetic-resistance that is quite unlike any other. This year, the Constellation “Manhattan” with 25mm, 28mm and 29mm models take its next step in design and technology, offering 101 new models for women which not only offer exceptional variety, but also the excellence of precision that this family of watches is known for. Yet for this entire new line, it is the outward craftsmanship that truly stands out. The refined makeover has touched upon almost every part of the iconic design, while still keeping the central “Manhattan” look that has been a firm favourite for more than 36years.