Hiren Kumar Bose introduces some select examples of ladies watches competing for the GPHG 2019 awards
HUBLOT Big Bang One Click Rainbow
Hublot sets its Big Bang models with all the colours of the rainbow, enriching Isaac Newton’s seven hues with the magenta radiance of pink sapphires. Its dial boldly flaunts a chromatic bezel composed of 48 baguette-cut gems. Eight shades impart a distinctive visual cadence running from dial to case, adorning the 39mm watch with 425 brilliant-cut stones and the 45mm model with 388. Eight pop colours: rubies, pink sapphires, amethysts, blue sapphires, blue topazes, tsavorites, yellow sapphires and orange sapphires. This joyful watch also welcomes the colours of the rainbow onto its “gummy” alligator strap, a fusion of natural rubber and alligator leather. Thanks to its patented “One Click” interchangeable strap, the 39mm model can even match its colour to that of your It-Bag with a snap of the fingers.
BVLGARI Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
The one-piece limited series and the most expensive high-end quartz timepiece ever made by Bvlgari, its cuff features a snake sinuously coiled around it. To reinforce the theme, the cuff is embellished with baguette-cut diamond scales, so that the wrist inhabits the design and becomes part of the snake itself. The white gold-cased watch comprises of a massive number of precious stones — the snakehead is crowned with a 10-ct Sri Lankan sapphire and a total of more than 60-ct of diamonds and 35-ct of sapphires form the snake’s body and scales.
Entirely crafted in ethical 18-ct white gold, this one-piece Waterlily Watch showcases some 43-ct of diamonds set in a floral design composed of jewelled lace petals. More than ever, Chopard celebrates the sacred nature of time by crowning it with the most beautiful of ornaments: a diamond flower. Playing on the different stone cuts, with heart, half-moon, shiny and trapeze-like shapes, the design of this watch is composed of curves, upstrokes and downstrokes in which gemstones are rimmed with other diamonds. The Maison’s artisans required no less than 36 weeks to complete this one-of-a-kind model from the Red Carpet Collection, on which every tiny detail of the dial, case and bracelet is entirely set with diamonds.
HERMÈS Arceau H Déco
Two new Arceau 34mm watches unite mother-of-pearl marquetry and gem-setting skills. Framed by a gold and diamond case, the H déco motif inspired by the eponymous Hermès tableware appears as a distinctive decorative interpretation, while the dial centre bearing double H twirls in step with wrist movements. In the centre, slender hands sweep over two intertwined Hs, stamped on a mother-of-pearl disc that twirls to the rhythm of the wrist movements. In a contrasting duo, the black version is lit up by gemset hoops; while the white version, paved with 432 diamonds, is marked with arched gold decorative fillets. This meticulous work accomplished by the Hermès artisans requires two days of work for a single dial. The white gold base is first sculpted in preparation for the mother-of-pearl inlay, and then polished. The mother-of-pearl artisan carefully puts in place each fragment of the motif cut to just 0.2 mm thick and the gem setter finally adorns it with several hundred diamonds. The discreet round case with its asymmetrical lugs is lit up by two rows of diamonds, as well as a rose-cut diamond on the crown. It is topped by a sapphire crystal engraved with the Hermès logo that appears to be levitating. Its stirrup-inspired lugs secure it to a smooth black alligator strap crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops, as too is the white gold case.
VOUTILAINEN Starry Night Vine
One of the greatest contemporary lacquer artists Tatsuo Kitamura living of Wajima town in Japan has decorated the dial. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level. This masterpiece on a 39mm one-piece watch; the sky above of vineyard; use techniques of lacquering which takes far more than hundreds of hours of work to complete the dial and bridges. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand). Top of that, another half of the landscape is created by Anita Porchet, one of the greatest contemporary enamel makers. Beautiful vineyard with rich colours is made with email cloisonné techniques. It shows vineyard on his full beauty, grapes fulfilled in enjoyable colours. This exceptional and unique collaboration illustrates perfectly how two completely different techniques can complete each other. To make the scene perfect, even the case is engraved by master engraver Eddy Jaquet in the theme of grapes and vine leaves.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux Aries Watch
The 38 mm white gold-cased watch from the brand’s Zodiac Lumineux Collection with white gold bezel, round diamonds; glitter blue enamel dial, enamel tracing; translucent blue enamel beads, sculpted yellow gold Aries, is made of yellow sapphires, round spessartite garnets and round blue sapphire eye. It also sports on-demand lightning animation developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels.