Hiren Kumar Bose previews five premium watches waiting to be seen at the soon-to-be-held watch event
HUBLOT Big Bang Unico Red Magic
Arguably one of the highlights of this year will be this 45mm Big Bang Unico in a patented red ceramic watch with just 500 pieces. By creating a new material – the first vibrantly coloured ceramic – Hublot has once again used its limitless imagination to achieve a world’s first. A triple tour de force, the coloured ceramic invented by Hublot is innovative both in terms of the material itself, and the manufacturing process. In addition to the vibrant colour it is also harder than conventional ceramics. The flange, indexes, minute and seconds counters, Arabic numerals and hands all match this hue, adorned in the same red to highlight the contrast with the mechanism of the Unico HUB124 manufacture movement and its column wheel, visible on the dial side through the sapphire crystal. This theme encompasses the entire watch, matched with a lined structured red rubber strap.
LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Flying Tourbillon 1
Following its grand complications such as Répétition Minutes, Skeleton Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève and Spin Time, this high-flying timepiece marks a decisive step forward in the wonderful world of high watchmaking through adaptation of the principle of the mysterious movement, arranged in a line and combined with a flying tourbillon escapement. Developed in the 19th century, mysterious movements traditionally make the hands appear to levitate. This fascinating optical illusion is made possible thanks to a clever mechanism of crystal discs, today replaced by sapphire crystals. This applies to the LV 110 calibre in its entirety. Arranged along a vertical line, the co-axial double barrel concealed beneath a Monogram Flower situated at 12 o’clock, the central wheels dedicated to the hours and minutes, as well as the tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock, appear to float in mid-air. A lightweight creation reinforced by two stylistic effects: the absence of a connection between the winding crown and the double barrel, and the choice of a flying tourbillon whose carriage, which performs a complete rotation in 60 seconds, is adorned with openwork Monogram Flower. Showcased within the concave platinum case of the Tambour Moon, 45 mm in diameter and mounted on a black alligator strap, the mechanical LV 110 calibre with manual winding and contemporary design boasts an eight-day power reserve.
CARL F. BUCHERER Manero Peripheral
This 43 mm Manero Peripheral is an addition to its existing e collection, thus far exclusively available in a 40.6-millimeter-wide case size. Crafted from 18 ct rose gold and coming in at 43.1mm in diameter and 11.2mm thick, this latest version makes for a grander take on the brand’s highly successful CFB A2050 calibre. This movement is one of the few currently produced calibres that sport a peripheral self-winding rotor, a rare engineering feat designed to provide ample winding efficiency without adding to the thickness of the movement and consequently the case. Just as important is the fact that, thanks to the peripheral rotor, the case-back side of the movement can be appreciated in its entirety at all times – unlike with conventional automatic calibres, where the oscillating weight is always hiding a large part of the movement from sight.
de GRISOGONO Allegra 25
This 41.7mm watch celebrates the Manufacture’s 25th year. The case forms an infinitely flowing circle with an endlessly woven gold ribbon. All powered by a quartz movement for improved comfort and accuracy, the new Allegra 25 timepiece is in either 18 ct pink gold or 18ct white gold partially or fully set with white diamonds. Supremely self-confident in black and white, it exudes the contrast between black rhodium-plated white gold and black diamonds, the iconic stones cherished de Grisogono. The five pieces currently part of the Allegra 25 collection offers a range of variety in the number of diamonds and types of dials: from 113 white or black diamond-set cases to dials crafted in mother of pearl.
Limited to just 10 pieces the 39mm watch, crafted from platinum, white gold or rose gold to has a dial which is hidden behind a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal and has been engine-turned and set with gold applied numerals. The movement, based on the Vingt-8 design, features two escapement wheels, where they give a direct impulse to the impulse roller. A power reserve of 65 hours is achieved and the additional functionality of a retrograde date with an easy-set feature integrated into the crown.