Hiren Kumar Bose provides brief on the six watches from three brands introduced this month
H. MOSER & CIE Pioneer Tourbillon and Pioneer Centre Seconds
Designed for everyday wear, the Pioneer Tourbillon and the Pioneer Centre Seconds, both in 42.8mm, from H. Moser & Cie feature a water-resistant case, made from 5N red gold and black DLC-finished titanium, topped with a domed sapphire crystal that highlights the deep and mysterious tones of the Midnight Blue fumé dial. The indices, tipped with a luminescent dot, are faceted, and the hands are partially skeletonized with Superluminova® tips, perfectly in line with the open, streamlined aesthetic. A rubber strap provides the final touch, reinforcing the contemporary dynamic of this resolutely stylish model, with a bold touch of non-conformity. A rubber strap provides the final touch, reinforcing the contemporary dynamic of this resolutely stylish model, with a bold touch of non-conformity.
On the movement side, the Pioneer Tourbillon is equipped with the manufacture HMC 804 self-winding calibre. Thanks to this pair of matched hairsprings, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection. In addition, the paired hairsprings also reduce the effect of friction normally experienced with a single hairspring, improving isochronism. Finally, the tourbillon’s unique design makes it an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated independently of the movement via a simple plug and play system which allows easy servicing.
At the heart of the Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green model beats the HMC 200 self-winding movement. This manufacture calibre is equipped with a regulating organ designed, developed and produced entirely in-house. Decorated with the famous Moser double stripes on the bridges and plate, the HMC 804 and HMC 200 calibres are 100% Swiss, 100% Moser. Both are housing a large engraved oscillating weight that transfers the energy to the barrel via a bi-directional pawl-winding system which reduces the time required to fully wind the watch.
BREITLING Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk
With the release of two chronographs and an understated three-hand watch commemorating a partnership with the maker of the iconic P-40 Warhawk aeroplane, Breitling makes it clear that aviation remains an essential part of its brand DNA. The watches honour Curtiss Wright, a renowned American aircraft manufacturer, and the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, its most famous plane. The P-40 Warhawks were manufactured between 1938 and 1944. Two chronographs – one featuring a Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 movement – have been introduced along with a stunning three-hand model.
The Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk is distinguished by its military green dial with a matte finish. The contrasting silver subdials – 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters and a small second subdial – indicate that the watch is driven by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, the brand’s in-house mechanical movement, which delivers a remarkable power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The striking chronograph is equipped with a bidirectional rotating bezel featuring Arabic numerals and indexes as well as a practical red pointer. The SuperLumiNova® coating on the hour and minute hands and the Arabic numerals on the dial make it easy to read the time in any light. The COSC-certified chronometer has a 43-mm stainless-steel case presented on a green military strap. It is water-resistant up to 100 m. The eye-catching caseback has a transparent sapphire crystal printed with a Curtiss inscription and an image of an airborne P-40 Warhawk, whose design, with its shark’s mouth and color scheme, is based on the characteristic paint job associated with the plane when it was piloted by the American Volunteer Group in the Chinese Air Force’s famed Flying Tigers unit.
The Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk features a military green dial with a matte finish and tone on-tone subdials – 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters and a small second subdial. Its black nickel-plated hour and minute hands, as well as the Arabic numerals on the dial, are coated with Super-LumiNova®, so they are legible even in the most challenging of lighting conditions. At the heart of it is the Breitling Caliber 13, a mechanical movement renowned for its stability and performance. It offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The chronograph’s distinctive caseback is engraved with a Curtiss inscription and an image of a P-40 Warhawk with the dramatic shark’s mouth paintwork that made a powerful visual impact when the plane was part of the Chinese Air Force’s famous Flying Tigers unit and flown by pilots of the American Volunteer Group. This COSC-certified chronometer, which is water resistant up to 100m is presented on a green military strap.
The Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk features a military green dial with a matte finish and is presented on a green military strap. Its hour and minute hands and its Arabic numerals are coated with Super-LumiNova® for optimal legibility in all lighting conditions. It also has a bidirectional rotating bezel with a distinctive red pointer and a central seconds hand with a red tip. Inside the DLC-coated stainless-steel case is a Breitling Caliber 17 movement, which offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Like all Breitling watches, the precision of this model is confirmed by its status as a COSC-certified chronometer. The watch features an engraved caseback bearing the Curtiss inscription and a dramatic image of a P-40 Warhawk with the memorable shark’s mouth paintwork.
IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition
Water-resistant to 300m, the 45mm diver’s watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre, a chronograph movement with a flyback function. It displays stopped minutes in a subdial at “12 o’clock”. The external/internal rotating bezel guarantees safe setting of dive times. The watch is housed in a rubber-covered, stainless-steel case. It has a dial in distinctive Laureus blue and features black hands with a luminescent coating. On the back of the case is an engraving of 15-year-old Melan’s drawing on the subject of “Time to Learn”. It was the young Sri Lankan boy’s winning entry to the painting competition which IWC organizes annually within the Laureus projects.