It’s a delight watching new iterations of the chronograph watch and SIHH 2018 was no exception. Hiren Kumar Bose fetches five new chronos which made their appearance at Geneva
MONTBLANC 1858 Automatic Chronograph
Unlike the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter watches made by Minerva, acquired by Montblance, which hand-finished monopusher the new one has a standard automatic chronograph. Besides it possesses design elements of its ancestor: a military/pilot-style chronograph (reminiscent of WWII watches) with cathedral hands, Arabic numerals, 1930s overall look et al. The case measures a reasonable 42mm bronze case, smoked champagne dial, and shows a combination of brushed surfaces and some polished details, such as the bevels that run along the casebands and the lugs. A good point is the absence of text and date on the dial, with the exception of Montblanc’s historic logo. The automatic chronograph movement, the calibre MB 25.11 based on a Sellita SW-510 is a robust movement based on the 7750-architecture – modified to only display the small second and the 30-minute counter, without the date feature.
A LANGE & SÖHNE triple split
One of the most impressive timepieces ever created, the Triple Split is the most complicated chronograph, surpassing the previous record-holder, the Lange Double Split. The jumping minute counter which increases the complexity of the movement is no mean achievement. The 43mm watch is the first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that allows multi-hour comparative time measurements. Additional rattrapante hands on the minute and hour totalisers make it possible to stop lap and reference times of events that last as long as twelve hours. The watch can compare the times of two opponents in a Formula 1 race or a marathon. It can also record the times of consecutively starting events, such as the outbound and return legs of a long-haul flight. Also, it is possible to add the times of multi-hour events, such as the duration of individual Ironman disciplines. Any number of lap times can be stopped during an additive time measurement. Available in a limited edition of 100 pieces it is endowed with a flyback function that involves all three hand pairs as well. Thus, the chronograph can be reset and instantly restarted by pressing the lower chronograph pusher even during an ongoing measurement. A power-reserve indicator based on Lange’s typical Up/Down display shows how much of the 55-hour reserve remains available.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato Chronograph
The Laureato once again demonstrates the strength and relevance of the design of this iconic watch, born in 1975. This timepiece is designed for comfortable and natural daily use. Entirely clad in steel or pink gold, available with a 42 or 38 mm case and interpreted in three dial colours, it is an exceptionally versatile watch. Girard-Perregaux has fitted this emblematic case with its self-winding chronograph movement, driving two counter and small seconds as well as a date display. Distinguished by its comfortable power reserve and the particularly smooth activation of its pushers, the Laureato is defined by a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case, meaning with no lugs or loops; as well as by its metal bracelet forming a natural extension of the case. Its horological qualities are complemented by exemplary finishing including “Côtes de Genève”, chamfering and straight graining.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years”
With the 43mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years”, IWC presents one of the most popular Pilot’s Watches models as a special edition limited to 1000 pieces and has chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds. The automatic, self-winding watch has a stainless steel case, a white dial with a lacquered finish, and blued hands. The totalizers on this sporty chronograph are especially spectacular against the white dial. A soft-iron inner case keeps the movement safe from magnetic fields, and the sapphire glass is protected against sudden drops in pressure.
HAUTLENCE Invictus Neon Model
Named Invictus (42X49mm), the new chronograph is a sleek and sporty model with a powerful design. The Neuchâtel-based company, renowned for its bold, artistic approach, plays with daring colourways for the most recent addition to the collection, which also features the Available in orange, yellow and green, the Invictus Neon model paired with coloured bezel. The strikingly bright fluorescent colours fully coat the laser-cut honeycomb patterned inserts that adorn the sides of the dial. The fluorescent colour adds further depth to the timepiece, intensifying the three-dimensional effect created by the two superimposed dials. This play across multiple levels is characteristic of Hautlence, with the brand favouring creations which feature a base dial in opaline, combined with an intermediate sapphire dial on which the transfer hour numerals, coated in white Super-Luminova®, seem to float. The vibrant colours of the dial and bezel create a striking contrast with the three deep black hour, minute, seconds counters and split-seconds chronograph, in keeping with the case, with its middle and horns made from grade 2 bead-blasted titanium, providing a matte finish. The crown and push-buttons are also black, but these are polished then coated in PVD to add a contrasting touch of brightness. Four steel nuts complete the case’s construction, underscoring its rebellious side.