Introduced in 2005, Breguet’s Tradition Collection, thanks to its extraordinary architecture, has established its fame as an Haute Horologerie icon. The watches in this Collection could have been made in the 18th century, as if, but are modern with new and interesting features in every new offering. With its easily recognizable features like engine-turned dial, soldered lugs, Breguet numerals, a secret signature, Breguet hands and a fluted case it pays tribute to the very first creations of Abraham Louis Breguet. Though they charm us by their old look but unmistakably belong to our times: the 21st century. Over the years, the Tradition line has been progressively enriched with complications such as a power-reserve indicator, tourbillon, fusée and chain transmission, GMT function and retrograde small seconds, alongside the use of ultra-modern materials such as silicon and titanium. Hiren Kumar Bose on a Collection inspired by the legendary souscription watches of Breguet suggesting both a return to the brand’s origins and a vision of its future
Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077
The chronograph occupies a choice position in watchmaking as a complication in its own right. Measuring elapsed times provides immediate visualisation of the desired function, but making it work is an additional mechanical challenge because starting a chronograph disturbs the main gear trains. To alleviate this problem, Breguet has fitted its new Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 model with two independent trains. The first is the going train for the hours and minutes, regulated by a 3Hz balance and having a power reserve of 50 hours. For the chronograph, the second transmission has a 5Hz frequency to ensure more precise readings, in harmony with the one devoted to measuring the passing of time. The two trains are entirely disconnected and the movement remains unaffected when the chronograph is started. In keeping with the rules, the style of the 44-mm diameter watch is noted for its symmetry. The engine-turned dial in silvered gold showing the hours and minutes is offset at 12 o’clock, while the chronograph hand is fixed in the watch’s centre. The chronograph-activation indicator is at 6 o’clock. Directly opposite each other at 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock are two retrograde hands respectively indicating the watch’s power reserve and the chronograph minutes, while the two balance-wheels beat side by side at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock. This hand-wound timepiece is water-resistant to 3 bar (30m) and is fitted with a leather strap.
Breguet Tradition 7057
Offered in four variants 7057, the 40mm watch’s construction is unique, as the arrangement on both sides of the central plate shows off almost all of the components – bridges, gears, escapement and the famous “old fashioned” pare-chute shock absorber in hand-bevelled steel. Its hand-wound movement with power reserve is indicated on the dial and on the back.
Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusée
Protected by four patents this “Grande Complication” timepiece in 18-ct rose gold featuring a tourbillon, fusee and chain transmission, and a Breguet balance spring in silicon joins the existing models in yellow gold and platinum. Inspired by the legendary souscription watches, this 41mm model also features a silicon Breguet balance spring, as well as a new black galvanic-coated and engine-turned 18-ct gold dial. This sculptural piece highlights the contrast and relief effects, giving vibrant life to each component.
Breguet Tradition 7027
Offered in three variants, the 37 mm watch in 18-carat white gold has a hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated above and underneath. Its off-centered black dial in gold is hand-engraved on a rose engine. It has a sapphire caseback and made of 215 component. It includes the Manufacture’s invention namely Breguet hands, pare chute and in-house balance spring.
Breguet Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087
In this model the watchmakers using simulations have synthesised about a hundred thousand sounds, which were classified into categories according to psychoacoustic criteria. These sounds were listened to and evaluated to identify the two desired notes with the aim of revolutionising sound perception by modern harmonies and tuning. The construction of the 44mm timepiece was then undertaken to reproduce the selected sound mechanically. It has hammers that strike vertically from the movement towards the bezel. Thanks to this technique, the mechanical vibrations are very efficiently transformed into sound waves. A so-called semi-active buffer that maximises the hammer’s energy while eliminating the risk of a double strike caused by the vibration. An articulated damper has been devised that is synchronised with the hammer’s strike, which is immediately pulled back by a spring. A membrane placed on the back of the case, linked to the bezel, vibrates the air in the acoustic cavity between the pierced caseback and the membrane. The volume of the minute-repeater is thus increased, while the sounds from the mechanism are filtered. Manufacture Breguet is the first to use titanium in a movement for acoustical reasons, mainly because this material is so difficult to work with. In addition, there is a magnetic governor which can be seen on the dial side through the sapphire-crystal glass. Made as a tribute to the company’s long history, it is naturally endowed with a tourbillon. Besides it has titanium bridges based on antique Breguet models, silicon springs, and an inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon pallets.
Breguet Tradition 7097
It’s a 40mm wristwatch in 18-carat white gold and rose gold with self-winding movement and retrograde small seconds at 10 o’clock. With usual inventions incorporated like Breguet balance spring, escape-wheel and lever in silicon wing it’s offered in two variants. It runs on Calibre 505 SR1 with its off-centred silvered gold dial, engine-turned by hand.
Breguet Tradition 7067 GMT
Enriched with a time zone 7067 has a distinctive architecture that opens the main components of the movement to admiration. Its stylistic elegance is commensurate with its ease of operation; a button on the caseband at 10 o’clock quickly sets the timezone, which can be seen on an off-centre dial at 12 o’clock. A second engine-turned dial at 8 o’clock shows the reference time with its day/night indicator, alternating between silver and black at 10 o’clock. Despite its additional function, this Tradition GMT remains true to the identity of the collection with its anthracite-coloured movement highlighting the balance-wheel at 4 o’clock. The Breguet spring with its raised terminal curve and the inverted inline lever escapement are both in silicon and ensure the outstanding stability of rate born of Breguet’s technical inventiveness. The manually wound movement with a power reserve of 50 hours is fitted into a 40 mm diameter case in rose or white gold. As in the maiden Tradition model, the power-reserve indicator can be seen at the back of the watch through the sapphire-crystal caseback that also reveals a part of the movement that is generally hidden.
Breguet Tradition Dame 7038
Launched this year and offered in two variants this self-winding 37mm timepiece, Breguet has succeeded in feminising a model whose aesthetic essence lies in mechanical horology, a field that many tend to reserve for men. A clearly visible front its barrel is decorated with a rosette motif and overlapped at 12 o’clock, by a mother-of-pearl dial adorned with hand-crafted engine-turned “Clou de Paris” hobnailing. Although in full view the movement bridges and gear trains remain sufficiently discreet to ensure smooth and instead of the hours and minutes. The sandblasted mainplate and bridges are rhodium-plated to create a pleasing contrast with the rose gold case set with 68 diamonds. At the heart of this Tradition Dame beats Calibre 505SR, equipped with a lever escapement with silicon pallets and a Breguet balance-spring also made of silicon.