Hiren Kumar Bose on the tourbillions that stole the show at BaselWorld 2018
CARL F. BUCHERER Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
The tourbillon calibre CFB T3000 with silicon components and a stop-seconds function is one of the few tourbillon movements on the market to be officially COSC chronometer-rated. The new movement, created entirely in-house, with a patent for the peripheral winding mechanism and a pending patent for the tourbillon, combines a peripheral rotor with a peripherally mounted tourbillon mechanism that seems to float freely. The carriage, rather than rotating on a centre ruby bearing, is supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings, allowing the tourbillon to be admired without obstruction from both front and back. The brand’s patented peripheral unidirectional rotor allows for a completely open view of the movement through the sapphire caseback. The 18-ct rose gold, 43.1 mm watch has functions like hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillion and stop-seconds function.
BREGUET Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367
In a “Grand Feu” enamel version this 42mm platinum and gold watch is endowed with a beautifully simple interpretation of the tourbillon, which reigns supreme on a minimalist dial. Pared-down to its bare essentials, the unmistakable sheen of grand feu enamel is adorned only by the essentials: the hour and minute hands, a tourbillon carriage with small seconds and Breguet numerals. Unlike its previous avatar introduced in 2013, there is no power reserve indicator on this new edition. The hand-bevelled tourbillon bar is dopped by a blue spinel, matching the blued steel Breguet hands. The in-house movement, Calibre 581, features a patented high-energy barrel to maximize energy retention.
TAG HEUER Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer.
Unveiled in a limited, 155-piece edition for the TAG Heuer Carrera collection’s 55-year anniversary the watch is certified under ‘Viper Head’ (“Tête de Vipère”) standards–a public and independent body, its emblem, having only been affixed on 300 watches and is a guarantor of excellence and ultimate precision. To obtain this certificate of excellence, each watch was subjected to a 16-day test protocol, in five positions and at three different temperatures. This was applied to both the watch and movement. An eye-pleasing tourbillon and a chronograph are housed in a dark blue ceramic case, embellished with a bezel and ceramic horns.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
With this sandblasted titanium 42mm x 3.95mm watch, the brand establishes a new world record for the thinnest automatic watch and for the thinnest tourbillon watch. The 50-piece watch handles automatic winding via a technically advanced peripheral oscillating weight positioned on the back of the movement. It is made of white gold and aluminium, two metals whose contrasting density enables the circular weight to oscillate in a particularly regular manner. The movement with gear-train, regulating organ, self-winding mechanism, bridges and plates has a thickness of 1.95mm. The back of the watch, to reduce thickness, has been reworked and shows a small aperture for the tourbillon and a portion of the peripheral rotor. To gain in durability and in thinness, both the flying tourbillon and the peripheral rotor are equipped with a ball-bearing system – those for the rotor are visible on the dial side at 1, 5 and 9 o’clock. The back of the watch shows a small aperture for the tourbillon and a portion of the peripheral rotor. The utmost slenderness of the case and bracelet offers an elegant feel on the wrist.