Hiren Kumar Bose previews 10 unique Swiss-made watches for the Only Watch biennial charity event which raises funds for research in Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy
The eighth edition of the Only Watch biennial charity auction to benefit research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy has gathered participation from 52 watch brands. This exceptional and unparalleled project supports the battle against a devastating myopathy that affects 1 in 3000 male births on the planet by funding research.
Ahead of the auction, this unprecedented watch collection will be exhibited to the public from 25 September 2019 to 9 November 2019, in 10 different cities around the world. This world tour will be starting in Monaco, during (and on the site of) the Monaco Yacht Show and end at Geneva. For the second time, Christie’s is the auctioneer of choice on November 9 when the timepieces will be auctioned at the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues, Geneva.
The 52 brands will offer sought-after rarities that can be accessed nowhere else: for they are unique pieces showcasing the best savoir-faire in the horology world in all of its diversity.
Since its creation in 2005, Only Watch has raised over CHF40 million. Again, 100% of the proceeds achieved with the 8th edition of the charity auction will be directly invested in scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and on Duchenne muscular dystrophy in particular. For the benefit of our readers, we present ten watches from the lot.
BREGUET Type 20
Breguet has reissued a unique version of its Type 20 pilot chronograph from the fifties in a form that is very faithful to the original. The Type 20 was introduced as a pilot watch equipped with a flyback chronograph, the emblematic function of this watch. The flyback function allows for the chronograph function to be reset to zero by simply pressing the lower pushbutton, simplifying the pilot or team members’ operations and offering the possibility of recording several consecutive times. The 38mm watch features the Valjoux 235 movement, which is derived directly from the Valjoux 222 used in the fifties
AUDEMARS PIGUET Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked
The 31.65mm watch in an 18-ct pink gold case, 18-ct white gold bezel, lugs and case back, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case back is water-resistant to 30m. The dial is Opaline silver-toned in 18-ct white gold inner bezel, openworked and with 18-ct pink gold hands. The case back is engraved with “Unique Piece.”
HERMÈS Arceau L’heure de la Lune
The 43mm Arceau L’heure de la lune offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres. Two mobile counters gravitate on a meteorite dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement. Framed by a white gold case, the mechanics adopt a light, barely-there role. Meteorite inlaid with mother-of-pearl form a cosmos in which satellite dials float above hemispherical moons. These mischievous displays have swapped cardinal points, with the south above and the north below.
HUBLOT Classic Fusion Tourbillon Sapphire Orlinski
In a 45 mm Classic Fusion case, the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Sapphire Orlinski showcases a white gold bezel, set with 54 baguette-cut topazes. Entirely transparent, it reveals an openworked architecture showcasing the gears, tourbillon cage and power reserve. Sculpted into the sapphire, are the signature edges, bevels and facets of the artist Richard Orlinski. It will be delivered in a sapphire gift box, supported by the famous “Wild Kong” by Richard Orlinski.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master UItra Thin Perpetual Enamel Chestnut
The 39mm watch has a new perpetual calendar calibre, moon phase indication in both hemisphere north and South, hand-made guilloche enamel dial made by the manufacture craftsmen. It’s part of “Métiers Rares” core collection in an exclusive chestnut colour.
ULYSSE NARDIN Exo-Skeleton X
The 42mm watch is inspired by Autonomyo, a walking exoskeleton. It has skeleton manufacture movement, wide-diameter 3Hz silicon balance wheel with nickel flyweights, flexible double blades between the lug and the case, increasing flexibility, white openworked “dial” representing molecular structure. Ulysse Nardin’s Exo-Skeleton X sports a carapace giving it a bionic look and accentuating its ergonomic design. The flexible double blade is attached with two screws, one on the case and the other on the lug, enhancing the flexibility of the piece by allowing some movement between the lug bar and the case.
ZENITH El Primero A386
A unique El Primero White Gold execution in a distinctive unique remake and striking departure from its typical light grey, anthracite and blue counters, the 38-mm watch features a singular turquoise 3 o’clock subdial in tribute to this year’s Only Watch theme colour, echoed by discreet turquoise stitching on a black alligator strap. Engraved on the back with the logo of the biennial charity auction, this creation comes nestled in a luxurious dedicated one-of-a-kind Only Watch collector’s box.
MONTBLANC 1858 Split Second Chronograph
In the spirit of mountain exploration, Montblanc reinterprets a historical Minerva military monopusher chronograph from the 1930’s with the one-of-a-kind 1858 Split Second Chronograph. The 44mm timepiece is a fantastic chronograph complication quite rare and incredibly rooted into the story of Minerva and combines titanium and natural stone, the blue agate.
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
A unique edition of its successful Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture watch in 18-ct rose gold it features a blue tint Meteorite skeleton dial with a heartbeat opening at 6 o’clock, offering its wearer a precious glance at the watch’s complex mechanics. The 42mm timepiece is presented in a three-part 18-ct gold case with a see-through case back to let one admire the delicate Perlage & Côtes de Genève decorations. The watch features a stunning, skeletonised blue tint meteorite dial. This four-billion-year-old, very rare material fell on Earth 80’000 years ago and was found in Namibia, Africa back in 1839. The Perpetual Calendar complication also displays the day, date and month and requires even fewer adjustments than an annual calendar. The tourbillon’s cage sits at 6 o’clock, with its incorporated seconds hand that rotates once every minute.
LOUIS MOINET MEMORIS
The 46mm titanium cased aventurine plate watch works with is a single touch on the monopusher, a unique performance unfolds before your eyes. All of the chronograph parts – yokes, clutch, hammers, column wheel, springs and wheels – come alive to achieve their ultimate goal: measuring a specific period of time. The side of the case bears Louis Moinet’s authentic signature. The reverse of the movement can be seen in its entirety through the sapphire case back, with “N°01/01” engraved around it. The watch is wound using an oscillating weight is decorated with a blue concentric Clou de Paris pattern, engraved with the words “ONLY WATCH”.